36 NATURALS


PEG-30 Dypolyhydroxystearate, a popular W/O emulsifier. As shown in Figure 5, the formulation with Ecomuls 2 in 1 showed extremely high moisturising gain compared to the placebo formulation with 5% of PEG-30 Dypolyhydroxystearate. With the now widespread concept of minimalism, this emulsifier forms stable emulsions at low concentrations without using any co-emulsifier or thickening agents in parallel. In line with the waterless trend, Ecomuls 2 in 1 allows formulators to create anhydrous formulas by incorporating to a lipophilic continuous phase up to 5% of water, providing a lighter and less greasy feel for solid products such as sticks. This multifunctional emulsifier also offers


the possibility of adding pigments or oxides in the aqueous and oily phase at the same time or in the external phase increasing the final SPF and guaranteeing good UV protection. Thus, it makes it possible to formulate stable and non-oily natural sunscreen products.


Texture and viscosity comparison of natural emulsifiers Three emulsions were prepared in order to evaluate and compare characteristics in relation to the emulsifying system used; the formulations are shown in Figure 6. Each one of the formulas used a different emulsifier and all three emulsifiers were added at 5%, with the only other difference between systems being the type and dosage of stabiliser or rheology modifier which needs to be specific to the emulsifier and emulsion type. Consequently, relative viscosities were


tested and sensorial profiles were assessed and compared. The results showed these three natural emulsifiers can produce emulsions with particular viscosity range and texture suited to specific applications. Natura-tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 gives to the


formulation a relatively high viscosity and therefore is ideally suited for emollient protective emulsions, anti-ageing creams, baby products and natural sunscreen formulations thanks to its W/O structure. Its combination with both, our silicone alternative, Natura-Tec Plantsil™ and our Natura-tec Rice Starch, confers to the formula


■ Ecomuls 2 in 1 ■ Crystal cream ■ Emulactive W


Absorption


Body 10


5 Spreadability Tacky feel 0 0 Freshness Smoothness


Figure 7: Sensorial profile at application comparison of Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1, Natura-Tec Crystal Cream and Natura-Tec Emulactive W


PERSONAL CARE October 2022 Thickness Rich feel Smooth feel


Figure 8: Sensorial profile after application comparison of Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1, Natura-Tec Crystal Cream and Natura-Tec Emulactive W


www.personalcaremagazine.com Phase A Water MgS04, 7 H20 B


Dehydroxanthan Gum Natura-Tec Plantsil


C


Natura-Tec Babassu Oil (refined) Natura-Tec Ultrafeel MCT Natura-Tec White Beeswax Natura-Tec Liquid Shea Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 Natura-Tec Crystal Cream Natura-Tec Emulactive W Geogard ECT (preservative) Total


#1281K Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 Ingredients


#1281K %


72.60 0.80


5.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00


0.60 100


#1281C Natura-Tec Crystal Cream


#1281C %


73.35


0.05 5.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 5.00


5.00


0.60 100


#1281L Natura-Tec Emulactive W


5.00 0.60 100


#1281L %


73.20


0.20 5.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 5.00


Smooth and bright cream Viscosity (20°C) 670 000 mPa.s (LV4, 6rpm)


Smooth and bright cream Viscosity (20°C) 30 000 mPa.s (LV3, 2rpm)


Smooth and bright milk Viscosity (20°C) 3 300 mPa.s (LV2, 5rpm)


Figure 6: Texture and viscosity comparison of Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1, Natura-Tec Crystal Cream and Natura-Tec Emulactive W natural emulsifiers


a rich but non-greasy texture with a velvety touch. Natura-Tec Crystal Cream gives to the


formulation medium viscosity, making it ideal for natural moisturising emulsions, nourishing liquid crystal O/W systems, ethnic products, men care products and young skin where sebum control is an important factor. It is the


■ Ecomuls 2 in 1 ■ Crystal cream ■ Emulactive W


perfect emulsifier for light sensation, watery feel and rapid penetration formulations. Natura-Tec Emulactive W has the property


to generate a wide range of viscosity from low to very viscous, depending on the concentration of the oil phase. The more we increase the fatty phase, the more we increase the viscosity of the formula.


Absorption 10


5


Residual protective film


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