66 HAIR STYLING TABLE 2
Combining next generation and conventional (in vivo shampoo study): Crinipan PMC green for a lasting effect of healthier scalp.
2.74 some scaling
4 3 2 1
No flakes 0 2.80 2.08 MEAN DANDRUFF SCORE 2.05 1.71 1.89 1.76 1.40
decrease increase
1.95 1.60 INCI
Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Lauryl Glycoside
Citric Acid
Disodium EDTA Water (Aqua)
Polyquaternium-10 Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
Propanediol Caprylate (Crinipan PMC green)
D0 D14 D28 D42 0.25% Piroctone Olamine + 0.5% Crinipan PMC green ■ 0.75% Piroctone Olamine ■
Figure 2: Shampoo study. Mean visual dandruff scores determined by experts in Germany on a scale from zero to ten with 40 subjects: Piroctone olamine vs a combination of propanediol caprylate + piroctone olamine
which the subjects switched back to the use of a neutral shampoo. Dandruff was rated on a zero to ten visual scale (Figure 2). For both treatments an anti-dandruff effect,
reflecting a reduction of dandruff versus D0, was observed. Although the piroctone olamine positive control shampoo showed a slightly quicker scalp flaking decrease, no significant difference between the two treatments could be observed. Overall, both shampoos reduced dandruff.
Intriguingly, a long-lasting effect was visible in the group of applicants of the actives- combination, when looking at the mean values. Here, the dandruff mean score continued its downward trend even in the wash-out phase (D63 vs. D42), while for the positive control shampoo an increase of the mean dandruff score from D42 to D63 in the direction of the initial value was observed.
Discussion This additional in vivo study for propanediol caprylate vs positive control piroctone olamine underlines the new technology´s effectiveness to be equivalent to conventional systems once again, as it has been previously shown versus climbazole and placebo.10 The novel, bio-based anti-dandruff
active propanediol caprylate reduces flaking significantly, in particular on greasy scalp, commonly known for the Malassezia-induced dandruff condition. The second study looks at a new
combination of ‘conventional’ (piroctone olamine) plus ‘next generation’ (propanediol caprylate) ingredients. This comparison of the combination versus conventional alone during application of the shampoos first revealed no significant difference between the two treatments, and both shampoos were capable to reduce dandruff similarly when applied regularly. Yet the fact that a continued downward
trend for dandruff flakes was found even in the wash-out phase for the combination of actives, indicates a particular long-lasting effect. Using propanediol caprylate seems to
PERSONAL CARE October 2022
support a long-term normalization towards a healthy equilibrium on scalp, which may be linked to the positive impact on natural scalp microbiome that has been reported before.12
Conclusion Propanediol caprylate (Crinipan PMC green) is a major technology for a greener future of dandruff control, effective like conventional actives, and with clear additional advantages. The liquid and easy to handle cosmetic ingredient supports healthy scalp microbiome and significantly decreases dandruff. The combination with low levels of
piroctone olamine is an additional option: on top of having an established active as part of the ingredient list, it offers a sustainable, long lasting and cost-effective benefit.
PC
Acknowledgements The authors would like to give thanks to the BU Micro Protection global application laboratory, in particular to Jasmin Salmen for her expertise in creating the test shampoos.
References 1. Symrise AG. Market Review Dandruff Control. July 2021.
https://www.symselect. com/dandruff-control_review
2. CosIng (the European Commission database for information on cosmetic substances and ingredients).
https://ec.europa.eu/ growth/tools-databases/cosing/index. cfm?fuseaction=
search.details_v2&id=37595
3. US Food & Drug Administration. 2021.
https://www.fda.gov/drugs/status-otc- rulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc- dandruff-seborrheic-dermatitis-and- psoriasis-drug-products
4. Mintel GNPD database: Record ID 1562280. Henkel´s Schwarzkopf Seborin Dual Effect Shampoo Anticaspa (Anti-Dandruff Shampoo). Published May 2011 in Chile
5. Mintel GNPD database: Record ID 2261277. Unilever´s CLEAR Men Antiforfora Shampoo Purificante (Anti-Dandruff Purifying Shampoo). Published December 2013 in Italy
wash-out phase D63 Piroctone Olamine
Formula 1 17
0.4 0.1
75.7 0.2 0.5 0.5 5
- 0.75
Formula 2 17
0.25 0.1
75.7 0.2 0.5 0.5 5
0.5 0.25
Table 2: pH 5.5 simplified and unperfumed shampoo formulations used for the in vivo comparison study of piroctone olamine vs a combination of two ingredients (propanediol caprylate + piroctone olamine)
6. Mintel GNPD database: Record ID 1403922. Beiersdorf´s NIVEA for Men Anti-Schuppen Pure Shampoo (Anti-Dandruff Pure Shampoo). Published October 2010 in Germany
7. Mintel GNPD database: Record ID 5854667. Wella Professionals Invigo Balance Shampoo. Published July 2018 in the UK
8. Mintel GNPD database: Record ID 9397368. Procter & Gamble´s Head & Shoulders Sensitive Duschgel & Shampoo (Shower Gel & Shampoo). Published February 2022 in Germany
9. COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2021/1902 of 29 October 2021 amending Annexes II, III and V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use in cosmetic products of certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction. https://eur-
lex.europa.eu/ legal-content/EN/ TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32021R1902&qid= 1635933838171
10. Genrich F, Koch C, Lange S, Bugdahn N, Schmaus G. Next Generation Dandruff Control. SOFW-Journal 146 8-13. December 2020
11. Genrich F, Nordzieke S. Shaping the Future with Green Dandruff Control. Euro Cosmetics 29, 16-18. April 2021
12. Genrich F, Koch C, Massironi M, Thomaz F. Propanediol Caprylate: Shifting the Microbiome, Sebum Levels and Classic Approach to Dandruff. Cosmetics & Toiletries Vol 136; No. 6, 44-51. June 2021
13. COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) 2019/698 of 30 April 2019 amending Annexes III and V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products. https://
eur-lex.europa.eu/ legal-content/EN/ TXT/?uri=CELEX%3A32019R0698&qid= 1646062668262
14. Kita K, Caravieri F, Birkel S. Piroctone Olamine – Advancing Anti-dandruff Care & More, Efficient and safe scalp care for new formats & applications. SOFW-Journal 147 26-31. June 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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