NATURALS
Vitamin B12 – more than just a colourant
Francois Paul, Dr Dominik Imfeld - DSM Personal Care & Aroma Ingredients
Vitamins in cosmetic form are highly trusted with consumers, who strongly associate them with protection, health, and nature. In the world of personal care, some vitamins are better known and feature more frequently in products than others. One vitamin that is still, somewhat, under
the radar is vitamin B12. Naturally found in liver, oily fish, eggs, and dairy products, this vitamin is a popular food supplement, contributing to red blood cell and DNA production, the functioning of the nervous system and aiding digestion. In beauty products, vitamin B12 is primarily used and known as a naturally-derived colourant with an attractive pink hue, but it also offers potential for other applications, particularly solutions to address skin sensitivity. There is already evidence to support vitamin B12’s role in reducing symptoms related to atopic dermatitis when applied to skin in a barrier cream.1,2
At DSM, we therefore
decided to investigate this vitamin’s capacity to protect against and relieve the symptoms of other sensitive skin concerns. For this, we used our own cosmetic form of vitamin B12 (INCI: Cyanocobalamin, commercial name Vitamin B12 Cryst) which also meets demand for more sustainable cosmetic ingredients as it is produced through a biotech process involving non-GMO bacterial fermentation.
Cosmetic vitamin B12 – the known biological action Vitamin B12 is involved in cell metabolism and is a cofactor in DNA synthesis. It is also a coenzyme involved in the synthesis of proteins and lipids. Deficiencies in vitamin B12 are known to cause skin hyperpigmentation, symptoms to
ABSTRACT
Vitamins in cosmetics are always a popular choice with consumers. Post-pandemic, demand for them is growing as they are seen as both a healthy and eco-conscious way to enhance skin appearance and feel. In response to this demand, DSM has been using its expertise in vitamins to explore the potential of vitamin B12. Although this pink ingredient is often used as a colourant, earlier studies have shown that topical vitamin B12 can help relieve symptoms of atopic dermatitis. In view of this, we have begun investigating further to see if it can help relieve and protect against sensitive skin symptoms more generally. Here, we outline three studies involving our own cosmetic form of vitamin B12 (INCI: Cyanocobalamin, commercial name Vitamin B12 Cryst), which is produced through a biotech process involving non-GMO bacterial fermentation. We present ex vivo and in vitro evidence of our ingredient’s potential to relieve sensitive, irritated skin and to protect the skin barrier from damage by inflammatory processes.
the hair and nails and atopic dermatitis.3 Vitamin B12, in vitro studies suggest,4 vitamin B12 can rebalance potential overproduction of cytokines by T lymphocytes, which may initiate the inflammatory events associated with atopic dermatitis. The vitamin is also effective as a nitric oxide scavenger, which points to its potential to target skin itching and redness associated with excessive amounts of nitric oxide.
To extend on what we currently know about vitamin B12 in relation to skin sensitivity, we conducted new studies, focusing on: ■ Skin inflammatory reactions caused by inflammasome activation ■ Skin sensitivity and inflammation caused by mast cell degranulation ■ The role of vitamin B12 in preventing over colonisation of skin microbiota associated with skin inflammation
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Figure 1: Mechanism of skin inflammatory reactions and NLRP3 inflammasome activation and the potential for vitamin B12 to intervene in these mechanisms
www.personalcaremagazine.com October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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