34 NATURALS
Using natural emulsifiers for innovative cosmetics
Caren Abou Saleh, Pascale Goyat, Charlotte Vignal - Natura-Tec
New generation of consumers are nowadays more conscious about what they put on their skin and want to discover and use the best personal care products that fit with their lifestyle. Thus, the demand to move towards sustainable development and environmental protection has pushed the cosmetic industries to replace synthetic chemicals that can potentially cause harm, with clean and natural ingredients. Nowadays, the main objective of the
cosmetic industries should be the constant pursuit to build eco-awareness and develop natural, safe and effective ingredients stimulating growth towards a more sustainable lifestyle. In this concept, among its various natural ingredients categories, Natura- Tec provides COSMOS-approved natural emulsifiers, respectful of the planet and the skin and holding numerous benefits of various components of vegetable origin. While choosing natural emulsifiers over
synthetic ones, formulators will find out that to complete the formulations, get better affinity and form a stable emulsion, they will need to go for natural ingredients as well. That way, cosmetic formulators are not only pushed to use natural emulsifiers but also natural ingredients that will result in cleaner and safer end-products. Emulsifiers are essential to guarantee the
stability and to support the sensorial profile of a finished cosmetic product, whether for skin care, makeup, hair care or personal wash
applications. However, these molecules of interest often come from petrochemical sources and are not systematically biodegradable. Natura-Tec has thus optimised the use
of its natural emulsifiers by developing unbeatable and unique textures, proposing innovative and eco-friendly solutions for the personal care industries.
Natural emulsifiers Emulsifiers are one of the most adaptable forms of ingredients used in a wide range of personal care products. They reduce the surface tension at the interface of two immiscible phases, helping an apolar or lipophilic phase to bind with an aqueous phase. Natural emulsifiers belong to a broad
range of chemical families. Within each family, aspects such as the used natural source or the extraction method that can lead to different properties.
The priority to develop ingredients in a
biobased and/or circular economy scenario has led R&D laboratories to develop a new generation of emulsifiers, of which the main constituents can be classified in different categories.
Proteins The combination of 21 different amino acids confer to the proteins a structure containing both hydrophobic and hydrophilic compounds giving them an amphiphilic character and allowing them to be absorbed at oil/water interfaces, leading to a stabilised emulsion. However, the use of proteins in final
Figure 1: Stratum corneum structure PERSONAL CARE October 2022
products is still hindered by the environmental conditions and specially the pH level. This
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