NATURALS D0, before application D21, after application
41
Figure 3: Anti-wrinkle effect in the crow’s feet of an Asian volunteer
synthesis of hyaluronic acid by 33% at 1%. Therefore, it maintains matrix fibers functionally organised and contributes to hydration in the dermis.
Anti-ageing benefits in Caucasian and Asian panels These results translate into anti-ageing cosmetic benefits, demonstrated in Caucasian and Asian volunteers. The Caucasian panel was composed of two
groups of healthy female volunteers between 45 and 66 years of age with wrinkles on the crow’s feet and a dull complexion, having applied the placebo or the cranberry fruit press cake extract at 2% to one half of the face twice daily for 42 days according to predefined randomisation. The placebo group included 19 subjects
aged 45 to 66 years (mean age 59 ± 7 years) and the cranberry fruit press cake extract group included 18 subjects aged 46 to 66 years (mean age 56 ± 7 years). The Asian panel was composed of two
groups of healthy female volunteers with wrinkles on the crow’s feet and a dull complexion having applied the cranberry fruit press cake extract at 2% or the placebo to the entire face twice daily for 42 days. The placebo group included 32 subjects
aged 41 to 63 years (mean age 53 ± 6 years) and the cranberry fruit press cake extract group included 32 subjects aged 43 to 64 years (mean age 54 ± 6 years). The study of complexion radiance
was assessed by visual scoring by trained evaluators in the Caucasian panel and by a dermatologist in the Asian panel. These experts determined that, as of 21
days of application, the cranberry fruit press cake extract tested at 2% in an emulsion significantly improves the parameters characteristic of complexion radiance in Caucasian (reflection: +12%; pink color: +17%) and Asian subjects (luminosity: +6%; olive color: -5%).
www.personalcaremagazine.com In the same conditions, it presents an
anti-wrinkle effect in Caucasian volunteers (negative volume: -22%), evaluated by fringe projection, and Asian volunteers (stage of crow’s feet wrinkles: -10%) (figure 4), assessed by a clinical scoring. These radiance-boosting and anti-wrinkle effects intensify after 42 days of treatment and are confirmed by a subjective evaluation. Indeed, Caucasian volunteers consider that their skin is more moisturised and more tonic (94%), as well as more radiant (88%). Also, 100% of Caucasian and Asian volunteers consider their fine lines and wrinkles to be attenuated.
A faster action than retinol By restoring the mechanisms governing homeostasis of the epidermis and dermis, the cranberry fruit press cake extract exhibits an overall anti-ageing efficacy translating into radiance-boosting and anti-wrinkle benefits. This anti-ageing activity is reminiscent of that of retinol, a molecule which is known for its potent cosmetic efficacy. Based on these elements, several studies
were implemented to compare the efficacy of the cranberry fruit press cake extract to that of retinol.
The study of the mechanism of action
of the cranberry fruit press cake extract and of retinol in vitro has shown that retinol modulates only 31% of the genes deregulated in the course of ageing compared to 81% with the cranberry fruit press cake extract. In vivo, the results showed that the active
ingredient has an effect more rapid than that of retinol on complexion radiance and on the reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles. While the effects of retinol are observed and significant after 42 days of treatment, those of the cranberry fruit press cake extract are visible and significant as of 21 days. The active ingredient also has a positive
effect on the barrier function while retinol causes a substantial increase in transepidermal water losses. In addition, retinol treatment
is often associated with side effects such as irritations and discomfort, manifestations not seen when treating the skin with the cranberry fruit press cake extract. These data confirm the interest of using the
cranberry fruit press cake extract as a potent anti-ageing solution, just as effective as retinol while avoiding issues of irritation.
Conclusion The result of an upcycling approach combined to a unique industrial process, Peptilium® is an anti-ageing active ingredient rich in natural biopeptides purified to 95%. It is obtained from the co-product of a superfruit, the cranberry, from a traceable and responsible supply chain that respects the practices of sustainable development. Combining high efficacy, transversality
and safety, Peptilium targets the three compartments of the skin. It strengthens the epidermal barrier function and boosts complexion radiance. It also improves the quality of the dermal-epidermal junction and of the dermal matrix for an anti-wrinkle action. Compared to retinol, the active ingredient
has a more intense and more rapid efficacy while having no side effect. Patented, safe, and biodegradable, this natural active ingredient is compliant with international cosmetic regulations. With a natural origin content of 99% (ISO
16128), it respects biodiversity regulations and is an effective and sustainable solution recommended in all overall anti-ageing care products.
PC
References 1. Ferreira MS, Magalhães MC, Sousa-Lobo JM, Almeida IF. Trending Anti-Ageing Peptides. Cosmetics. 2020; vol.7, no.4, p.91
2. Montesano D, Gallo M, Blasi F, Cossignani L. Biopeptides from vegetable proteins: new scientific evidences. Current Opinion in Food Science. 2020; vol.31, p.31–37
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