52 SUN CARE


TABLE 3: SNF’S COLD PROCESS MINERAL SPF 50+ FORMULATION Phase


Ingredients / INCI A DI Water


Disodium EDTA Glycerin


Xanthan Gum


Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Propanediol


B Dicaprylyl Carbonate


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Phenoxyethanol


Titanium Dioxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Polyhydrox y -stearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate


Zinc Oxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dimethicone


Polysorbate 20 Sorbitan Oleate


Polyhydroxystearic Acid Cetyl PEG/PPG-10-1 Dimethicone


C Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) C15-19 Alkane (and) Lauryl Glucoside


Observations Initially Stable


Stable at 40°C Oven, 24 hrs. Stable at 40°C Oven, 48 hrs. Stable at 40°C Oven, 1 week Stable at 40°C Oven, 2 weeks Stable at 40°C Oven, 13 weeks Stable at 40°C Oven, 16 weeks


This resulted in a smooth, creamy


formulation that had good cushion and applied easily to the skin. Initially, the formulation was stable; however, after incubation (24 hours, 40°C), there were signs of separation. Trial 4 In order to help increase stability and disperse the UV filters, Polysorbate 20 and Sorbitan Oleate were added. Propanediol is a humectant and helped increase the moisturization of the formulation. This prototype showed more cushion, play time, and absorbed well into the skin. However, after 24 hours, the prototype showed signs of separation. Trial 5 Polyhydroxystearic Acid can aid in the dispersion of UV filters and helps boost SPF. Once this ingredient was added to the formulation, the stability improved greatly. The formulation remained stable for three days before signs of separation were observed. Trial 6 Cetyl/PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone was added to the formulation. This product exhibits


PERSONAL CARE October 2022 3


Yes No


Trial 1 (%)


Trial 2 (%) Trial 3 (%) Trial 4 (%) Trial 5 (%) Trial 6 (%)


46.15 45.19 44.45 40.8 33.05 34.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 2


2


0.3 0.5


5 2 1


15 25 1


5 2 1


15


25 0


0 0 0


3


Yes No


2


0.5 1


5 2 1


15 25 2


2 5 2 1


15 25


0 0.05 0 0.25 0 0


0 0


4


Yes No


5


Yes No


2 1


5 5 2 1


15


25 1


0.5 4 0


5


Yes Yes Yes No


2


0.4 0.4 0.4 1


1


5 5 2 1


15


25 1


0.5 3 1


4


Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes


broad compatibility with UV filters and various emollients.


With the addition, the formulation was


visibly smooth and creamy, it provided good play time, was absorbed easily into the skin, and remained stable. The final formulation has been stable was monitored weekly for changes and was stable for 16 weeks.


Conclusion SNF products range offer the possibility to formulate sustainable high SPF index sunscreen cream in a cold process. By using SNF’s Natursol EMI 132, a stable sunscreen cream was developed providing a reduction in time and a cost savings by using less energy (heat). This formulation helps to minimise the


whitening effect during application. which is often experienced with several high SPF index commercial products. Since most of the ingredients used in this


formulation were naturally based, SNF was able to earn USDA Certified Biobased Product label.5


Not only is this 84% certified biobased formulation produced by using no heat, but it


has also been evaluated and found to provide an SPF 50.


References 1. Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. Sun Protection Factor (SPF). US Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/about- fda/center-drug-evaluation-and-research- cder/sun-protection-factor-spf


2. Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. Sunscreen: How to help protect your skin from the sun. US Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding- over-counter-medicines/sunscreen-how- help-protect-your-skin-sun


3. UV radiation. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. 2021. https://www.cdc.gov/nceh/ features/uv-radiation-safety/index.html


4. UV radiation. The Skin Cancer Foundation. 2022. https://www.skincancer.org/risk-factors/ uv-radiation/


5. Welcome to the BioPreferred® Program catalog. BioPreferred. https://www.biopreferred.gov/ BioPreferred/faces/catalog/Catalog.xhtml


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