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HAIR STYLING


Crinipan PMC green performed equal to piroctone olamine (in vivo shampoo study). Both products significantly reduced dandruff vs. baseline on greasy scalp after 28 days.


very large quantity of dandruff


5 4 3 2 1


No dandruff 0 ADHERENT DANDRUFF 2.75 3.08 1.90 2.08 NON-ADHERENT DANDRUFF 2.582.56 1.81 1.56 D0 D28 Crinipan PMC green ■ Piroctone Olamine ■


Figure 1: Shampoo study. Mean visual dandruff scores determined by professional evaluators in Poland on a scale from zero to five for adherent/non-adherent dandruff, and on a scale from zero to ten for total dandruff as a sum with 21 subjects


adherent dandruff score was observed at the end of the application phase (D28) versus baseline (D0) for both groups (propanediol caprylate p=0.0004; piroctone olamine p=0.0056). Similarly, the reduction in the non-


adherent dandruff score at D28 versus D0 was also statistically significant for both studied shampoos (propandiol caprylate p=0.0050; piroctone olamine p=0.0028). While no significant difference between the two groups was identified, the total dandruff score was reduced from 5.33 to 3.71 (p=0.0002) in the propanediol caprylate group, and from 5.64 to 3.64 (p=0.0032) in the piroctone olamine group.


Effectiveness of propanediol caprylate in combination with piroctone olamine A general aim of the cosmetic industry for superior effectiveness of anti-dandruff applications can also be concluded from the new limit of 2% climbazole in rinse- off shampoo. This regulatory limit is the ultimate result of a request from shampoo manufacturers for higher use levels.


TABLE 1 INCI


Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Lauryl Glycoside


Citric Acid


Disodium EDTA Water (Aqua)


Polyquaternium-10 Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol


Cocoamidopropyl Betaine


Propanediol Caprylate (Crinipan PMC green)


Piroctone Olamine


Formula 1 17


0.15 0.1


76.05 0.2 0.5 0.5 5


0.5 -


Formula 2 17


0.15 0.1


76.05 0.2 0.5 0.5 5


- 0.5


Table 1: pH 5.5 simplified and unperfumed shampoo formulations used for the in vivo comparison study propanediol caprylate vs. piroctone olamine


www.personalcaremagazine.com The European safety evaluation process by


the SCCS had first concluded that increasing shampoo use levels to 2% - and keeping the generic use level of 0.5% in parallel - would not work out in their worst case-aggregate exposure scenario; thus anti-dandruff shampoos were prioritized for the 2% limit, while even lower use levels for other applications were implemented. An augmented use level of 0.75% piroctone


olamine was reported to be particularly effective in a recent article by Clariant.14 Combining different ingredients, as described before, is also an attempt to achieve better efficacy. Considering all these factors, we aimed for


another randomized, blind study comparing a simplified standard shampoo using 0.75% piroctone olamine as positive control versus a second shampoo containing 0.5% propanediol caprylate plus 0.25% piroctone olamine. Either piroctone olamine or the combination


of propanediol caprylate and piroctone olamine were added to two separate, but identical clear and unperfumed sodium laureth sulfate shampoo bases at the respective use levels (Table 2). Forty preselected volunteers with mixed dandruff conditions, half of them with greasy and the other half with dry scalp, followed a 14-day, pre-conditioning procedure in which they were only allowed to wash their hair with a standardized neutral market shampoo without active, previously provided by the external institute. After the conditioning phase, 20 subjects


(ten with greasy scalp, ten with dry scalp) applied the piroctone olamine (positive control) shampoo, and the remaining 20 subjects (with identical split greasy/dry scalp) applied the test shampoo with a combination of propanediol caprylate/piroctone olamine. The test shampoos were applied at least three times a week. The visual dandruff score was rated in the


test institute before the first application (D0), after 14 (D14), 28 (D28) and 42 days (D42) of application. An additional rating was carried out after a total of 63 days (D63), at the end of a wash out period of 3 subsequent weeks, in


October 2022 PERSONAL CARE D0 D28


8 6 4 2 0


TOTAL DANDRUFF 5.64 5.33 3 3.64.71


65


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