SKIN BARRIER
29
Restoring skin with a novel Ca2+
delivery system Dr. Julia Baumann, Dr. Franziska Wandrey, Dr. Fred Zülli – Mibelle Biochemistry ABSTRACT
Ageing and metabolic disorders such as diabetes are key drivers that can lead to skin barrier disruption. Despite the increasing demand for cosmetic treatments for old/diabetic skin, current options are limited and often include occlusive formulations. A major characteristic of a disrupted skin barrier is a defective calcium gradient in the epidermis. Therefore, replenishing the aged/diabetic skin’s calcium stores with topical calcium could be a potential therapeutic approach. Both in vitro and clinical studies have shown, that a novel calcium ion (Ca2+
) vector
system enables the successful delivery of bioavailable Ca2+
ions into the skin, aiding
not only in recovery but also in protection of the skin from SLS stress. This highlights the use of this vector system as a new and superior approach to treat a damaged barrier present in diabetic, aged, or atopic skin.
Our skin’s epidermis acts as an essential and strong natural barrier that protects our body. It prevents the entry of pathogens, allergens, and environmental pollutants while at the same time sealing in water, ensuring proper moisture levels in the skin. Damage to the epidermal barrier can have dramatic effects on our skin, leading to dry, irritated, and scaly skin, in extreme cases even xerosis. Numerous external factors but also internal metabolic changes can affect our skin barrier. Ageing is one of the key drivers that slowly but steadily leads to an impaired skin barrier function.1
Furthermore, diabetes is also an
important factor that can negatively impact the skin’s barrier. Diabetes is an increasingly prevalent disease
in our ageing society. In 2019, the global diabetes prevalence was estimated to be 9.3% (463 million people) and is predicted to further rise to 10.2% (578 million) by 2030.2
Given the
high prevalence of diabetic patients and our ageing population, cosmetic treatments to prevent or alleviate problems in old/diabetic skin are a growing market. Despite the increasing demand for cosmetic
treatments, current options remain rather limited, and often include urea and greasy occlusive formulations. More advanced
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prescriptive medication may even require the assistance of medical professionals. Moreover, such formulations generally only
treat the symptoms without addressing or preventing the underlying cause of damaged skin. It is therefore evident that novel effective treatment options are required that target the underlying mechanism of ageing/diabetic skin barrier dysfunction.
The epidermal calcium gradient underlies skin health The skin barrier is established in the epidermis, with the key molecule driving the epidermal barrier formation being calcium.3 (Ca2
Calcium ions +) serve as essential signalling molecules,
regulating numerous cellular functions in the skin, most importantly keratinocyte proliferation, and differentiation. As keratinocytes need different calcium
concentrations for various cellular stages (low calcium for proliferation, high calcium for differentiation) an epidermal calcium gradient is formed. In the lower levels of the epidermis (stratum basale and spinosum), the calcium gradient is at its lowest, but it rises, reaching its peak in the stratum granulosum, and declining again towards the outermost layer of the stratum corneum, where the keratinocytes
reach their final differentiation status (Figure 1). Calcium also regulates the expression of differentiation-specific proteins such as loricrin, involucrin and filaggrin,4
keratinocyte migration as well as wound healing.5
+ signalling are key for a healthy skin barrier.
Replenish the skin’s calcium stores with bioavailable Ca2
Unsurprisingly, a major characteristic of a disrupted skin barrier is a reduced or defective calcium gradient in the epidermis.6
Indeed,
during the ageing process calcium signalling is impaired and the calcium gradient collapses,7 which may in part underly the ageing skin’s reduced barrier function and epidermal thinning. Therefore, a potential therapeutic approach could be to replenish the skin’s calcium stores of not only aged, but also diabetic skin, with topically applied calcium. We developed a new and effective cosmetic
active, by encapsulating calcium ions with phospholipids, thereby making calcium optimally bioavailable to the skin. Both in vitro and clinical studies demonstrated that our innovative Ca2
and repairs damaged skin, but also ensures a faster skin recovery.
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
and regulates Taken together, calcium gradient and
+ vector system not only protects
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