50 SUN CARE
TABLE 2: FDA-APPROVED UV FILTERS Type of UV filter
Ingredients Approved by the US Food and Drug Administration
lWater Chemical 'Organic'
l Aminobenzoic acid l Avobenzone l Cinoxate l Dioxybenzone l Homosalate l Meradimate l Octocrylene l Octinoxate l Octisalate l Oxybenzone l Padimate O l Ensulizole l Sulisobenzone l Trolamine salicylate
with smaller particle sizes, and formulators are developing tinted sunscreens which can help mask the whitening effect.
Regulation The regulation of sunscreens and sunscreen chemicals differs significantly across the globe. The active ingredients in sunscreen formulations help filter out the harmful UV rays and protect the skin. Differing classification, labelling, and claim requirements exist for sunscreen products among countries. In some European countries, sunscreen products are regarded and regulated as cosmetic products which offers formulators more options when formulating sunscreen products. Several countries have more than 27 active ingredients approved to be used as UV filters. In the US, sunscreen products are regulated
as over-the-counter medical products. Since UV filters are considered active ingredients, they are approved and regulated by the FDA. According to the FDA, sunscreens are regulated as a drug because they ‘make a drug claim – to help prevent sunburn or to decrease the risks of skin cancer and early skin ageing caused by sun’. Currently, the FDA has approved 16 active
ingredients that can be used to formulate sunscreen products.3
The most frequently used
chemical UV filters approved by the FDA are avobenzone, oxybenzone, homosalate and octocrylene.
Physical 'Mineral'
l Zinc oxide l Titanium dioxide
l Film Formers: distribute UV filters on the skin and increase the SPF
l Emollients: enhance sensory on the skin
l Emulsifiers: stabilize the emulsion
l Thickeners: build the viscosity, stabilize the emulsion and enhance the sensory
l UV Filters: active ingredient used to provide UVA, UVB, and/or broad-spectrum protection
Figure 2: Ingredients of a typical sunscreen lotion
Efficacy test SPF is a measure of the UV radiation required to cause sunburn on skin where sunscreen has been applied relative to the amount of UV radiation required to cause sunburn on skin in which sunscreen has not been applied.4
As the level of
protection increases, the SPF value increases. The SPF value of sunscreens can range
significantly – as low as SPF 6 to SPF values above 50. Sunscreens that have an SPF of at least 15 are required to get the best protection from the sun’s rays. The efficacy of sunscreen is supported by standardised and reproducible testing methods. A sunscreen’s ability to protect against UVB
rays is measured by in vivo testing methods to determine the SPF. Two standardised testing methods exist for UVA protection – in vivo determination of UVA protection (ISO 24444:2010 – in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)) and in vitro determination of UVA protection (ISO 24443:2012 – determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro).
Sunscreen products Sunscreen formulations contain active ingredients (UV filters) and non-active ingredients. The non-active ingredients are the ingredients used to develop a finished formulation and they contribute to the sensory, texture and performance of the overall formulation.
When it comes to modes of application
for sunscreen, consumers have an array of options to choose. Sunscreen products can be purchased as creams, lotions, gels, sticks, and sprays. So, which is better? Most experts agree that the best type of
sunscreen is the one the consumer will wear most often. However, there are some benefits and drawbacks of each type. Sunscreen creams provide hydration and are great for the face and people with dry skin. Sunscreen lotions are thinner and are good
for covering large areas of the body. They also tend to be less greasy than creams. Sticks of sunscreen, meanwhile, offer convenience when it comes to ease of application. They are useful for applying sunscreen around the eyes or quick swipes on areas like your cheeks. Like sticks, sprays offer convenience of covering large areas of the body quicky.
The formulation challenge SNF decided to create a stable sunscreen cream with an estimated of SPF 50 that will protect the skin and is better for the environment. The sunscreen was formulated with mineral UV filters, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Mineral UV filters are considered a safer alternative to the chemical UV filters. Most sunscreen formulations are developed
using a ‘hot process’ method. This process requires heating the ingredients to a high temperature to emulsify the formulation, and consequently needs a large amount of time and energy. The growing trend in clean beauty and
sustainability has generated a demand for personal care products that are developed by a ‘cold process’ method. Cold process methods decrease the carbon footprint of manufacturers due to the absence of energy consumption used in the heating and cooling of products. In addition, they do not require heat to achieve
proper emulsification while saving formulators and manufacturers time, energy and cost. SNF’s challenge was to develop a high SPF
Figure 3: The advantages of using an inverse emulsion are ready-to-use thickener; no need to neutralise; high viscosity development to achieve a creamy texture quickly; and enhanced sensory to formulations
PERSONAL CARE October 2022
sunscreen formulation with a cold process. We are pleased to announce that thanks to our core technology - inverse emulsions - a stable, cold process sunscreen cream with SPF 50+, with a reduced carbon footprint and process time, is possible.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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