SUN CARE
according to the Diagnoskin® method which establishes a correlation between the microrelief of the skin and the physiological age).
Sustainably driven sourcing The active features a truly natural composition. Active molecules - including mineral elements and malic acid - are extracted from Sechium edule, a fruit cultivated and manually harvested in the majestic Cirque de Salazie on Reunion island. Long-lasting relationships with local producers and harvesters guarantee a perfect traceability and quality, from fields to factory. The Sechium edule grows in a family farm
dedicated to market gardening. According to jointly-established specifications between Gattefossé and the producer, the harvest applies zero-waste principles: only the fruits discarded from the market sales are handpicked. Right after harvest, the fresh fruits are processed on site: sliced then dehydrated in a dedicated dryer. As part of its CSR programme, Gattefossé has
not only committed to the technical evolution of the producer’s facilities - with the financing of equipment to facilitate post-harvesting operations - but also in the financial stability of this supply chain. To this end, a supply agreement has been set up to ensure regular income to the producer. The extraction through NaDES technology
(natural deep eutectic solvents) and a tailor- made manufacturing process (minimal number of processing steps and a limited duration for each of them) makes it possible to obtain an eco- designed ingredient with 99.85% natural origin content (ISO 16128), COSMOS-validated and associated with biological high performance.
Conclusion Photoprotection is essential to prevent the long-term deleterious effects of UV. So far, and beyond the use of sun care creams and their well-known deficits of compliance, there is an increase in the use of phytochemicals for the development of more effective photoprotective products.
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and the long-term renewal and health of the epidermis, Solastemis™ appears as a complementary approach to classical photoprotection, offering a biological shield from the inside which adds value to any skin care products with SPF or sun care formula. A variety of claims is made possible with
the ingredient such as: it protects the skin from UVA-induced DNA lesions, it preserves the stemness potential of keratinocytes, it shields the skin from photo-ageing, it smooths the skin and visibly reduces wrinkles - providing a healthy, even and luminous complexion.
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Figure 3: 3D acquisitions on crow’s feet – Solastemis versus placebo By targeting DNA protection and repair
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References 1. De Gruijl FR. Photocarcinogenesis: UVA vs. UVB radiation. Skin Pharmacol. Appl. Skin Physiol. 2002; vol. 15 (5), p. 316–320
2. Lim HW, Naylor M, Honigsmann H, Gilchrest, BA, Cooper K, Morison Wet al. American Academy of Dermatology Consensus Conference on UVA protection of sunscreens: summary and recommendations. Washington, DC, Feb 4, 2000. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2001; vol.44(3), p.505–508. DOI: 10.1067/mjd.2001.112913
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3. Cadet J, Douki T, Ravanat JL. Oxidatively generated damage to cellular DNA by UVB and UVA radiation - Photochem. Photobiol. 2015; vol.91(1), p.140–155
4. Brem R, Guven M, Karran P. Oxidatively- generated damage to DNA and proteins mediated by photosensitized UVA. Free Radical Biology & Medicine. 2017; vol.107 (June), p.101–109. DOI:10.1016/j. freeradbiomed.2016.10.488
5. Tewari A, Grage M, Harrison G, Sarkany R, Young A. UVA1 is skin deep: molecular and clinical implications, Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences. 2013; vol. 12(1), p.95-103
6. Metral E, Bechetoille N, Demarne F, Damour O, Rachidi W. Keratinocyte stem cells are more resistant to UVA radiation than their direct progeny. PloS One. 2018, vol.13 (9), p. e0203863. DOI: 10.1371/journal. pone.0203863
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www.personalcaremagazine.com Vol. 21 Figure 4: Skin complexion study – before/after D56
7. Metral E. Rachidi W, Damour O. Demarne F. Bechetoille N. Long-term Genoprotection Effect of Sechium edule Fruit Extract Against UVA Irradiation in Keratinocytes. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2018; vol. 94(2), p. 343–350. DOI: 10.1111/php.12854
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Placebo
Solastemis™
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