Volume 23 Issue 9
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 9
Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Ashland News
101 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 17
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BASF Personal Care Europe Tatiana talks to Personal Care Global editor Tim Probert about how the world’s biggest seller of personal care ingredients plans to stay ahead of the chasing pack
21 Interview: Tatiana Kalman, head of
in-cosmetics Asia preview in-cosmetics Asia, the leading event in the Asia-Pacific region for personal care ingredients, returns to BITEC in Bangkok on 1-3 November. Taking place in Thailand for the first time since the pandemic, the event provides a platform to connect the regional and global personal care industry
29 Restoring skin with a novel Ca2+
delivery system Mibelle Biochemistry presents the use of a calcium ion vector system as a new and superior approach to treat a damaged barrier present in diabetic, aged, or atopic skin
34 Using natural emulsifiers for
innovative cosmetics Natura-Tec demonstrates the benefits of several natural emulsifiers that offer higher moisturising effects and beautiful textures for end-products while meeting ecofriendly and sustainable expectations
39 The anti-ageing efficacy of cranberry
biopeptides Natural biopeptides have the capacity to act transversally on several biological targets in the fight against the cutaneous disorders induced by ageing. Silab has developed a natural anti- ageing active ingredient, purified to 95% in natural biopeptides from a co-product of the cranberry, sourced from a responsible and traceable supply
43 Vitamin B12 – more than just a
colourant Royal DSM outlines three studies involving its cosmetic form of vitamin B12 - Vitamin B12 Cryst - which is produced through a biotech process involving non-GMO bacterial fermentation
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49 Developing a ‘cold process’ mineral
UV filter sunscreen Specialty chemical group SNF has developed a sunscreen formulation that not only benefits consumers but also the environment. This high SPF index, mineral-based formulation was developed using a process with no heat
54 Using spherical silica gels to improve
sunscreen AGC Chemicals Americas explains how recent advances in silica gel technology mean W/O (water-in-oil) sun care formulations can now be created that rival the appeal and processing ease of O/W (oil-in-water) formulations
59 Protecting keratinocytes stem cells
from UVA harm Gattefossé presents Solastemis, a sun care active ingredient that acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from lesions induced by UVA radiation and by boosting endogenous DNA repair capacity
64 The green future of dandruff control Symrise explains why Propanediol caprylate (Crinipan PMC green) is a major technology for a greener future of dandruff control, effective like conventional actives with clear additional advantages
69 Postbiotics for hair and scalp
microbiome balance Kalichem presents its Kalibiome postbiotic ingredients, which due to their powdery and preservative-free nature, their hydro-solubility and lack of interaction with cosmetics preservatives, are said to be suitable for several applications
75 Improving the efficacy and skin feel
of hand sanitisers Ashland explains why cellulose-derived rheology modifiers can improve the sustainability profile of sanitisers while improving the moisturisation and skin feel effects
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October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
94 79 A guide to hair product testing
techniques Inovapotek presents a range of hair testing techniques that can show damage sustained, from the cortex to the hair surface, for both quantitative and/or qualitative techniques
85 Testing standards for evaluating sun
care Anne Charpentier of Skinobs takes an in-depth look at evaluating the performance of sun care formulations, a complex issue that embraces in silico, in vitro, in vivo and hybrid testing methods
89 Unleashing the power ofNigella
sativa black seed oil TriNutra has developed a cold-pressed black seed oil with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-ageing benefits as a topical cosmetic aid for human skin
94 Betulin: a triterpene offering multiple
benefits Triterpenes have long been used as a therapeutic agent in various pharmacological formulations. Terlys offers the opportunity to use triterpenes as active ingredients for the cosmetics and personal care industries, with a commitment to green sustainability
98 The Stephenson way: reinvention
and innovation Editor Tim Probert visits Stephenson, a family- owned firm that dates back to 1856 and manufacturer of syndet bars, soap bases and other speciality ingredients for personal care
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