SKIN BARRIER
No. SAB4200794, Sigma Aldrich, USA) was assessed by immunohistochemistry staining. Quantification of involucrin was performed with Image J (NIH, USA) using customized plugins and filters.
Clinical study To evaluate the clinical efficacy of the Ca2
+
vector system, a double blinded randomized and placebo-controlled study was performed. 20 female volunteers aged 23 to 65 years (mean 42.2 years) with normal skin (Fitzpatrick II to III) were included. The study involved two parts, evaluating
both the protective and regenerative effects of the Ca2
+ vector system (2%, formulated into a
gel emulsion) prior to/after 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) stress using occlusive patches (Finn Chamber Large®, SmartPractice, Germany). For the protection phase, the application of the test products (2% Ca2
+ vector system and
placebo gel control) twice daily in one area, randomly selected (test area), for seven days followed by a challenge with SLS in three areas (untreated, 2% Ca2
+ vector system and placebo
creme control) and evaluation of the skin effects until complete recovery. For the regeneration phase, challenge with SLS in three areas (untreated, 2% Ca2
+
vector system and placebo creme control) was followed by the twice daily application of the test product in one area randomly selected (test area) and placebo in another area (control area), and evaluation of the skin effects until recovery of the three areas. The skin parameters were measured at
baseline, 24 hours after stress and every two to three days until recovery. Parameters measured were skin microcirculation (Periflux PF5000, Perimed, Sweden), skin redness (Chromameter® CR-400, Minolta, Japan), and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL, Tewameter® TM300, Courage +Khazaka, Germany).
Results and discussion The mixing of negatively charged phospholipids with Ca2
resulted in a supramolecular nanocochleate + ions by high pressure homogenization B Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) D Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) +0.1 % Ca2 + vector system
Figure 3: Rescuing of RHE stratification with the Ca2+ o
A Loricrin expression Control (1.1 mM calcium basal) vector system C Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) +1.1 mM CaCI2 B Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) D Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) +0.1 % Ca2 + vector system A Control (1.1 mM calcium basal) C Reduced calcium (0.3 mM calcium basal) +1.1 mM CaCI2
31
Figure 4: Ca2
+ vector system increases the expression of loricrin
with a double cone structure (Figure 2A). This structure, resembling a snail shell (cochlea is Greek for snail), was firstly described by Papahadjopoulas et al. in 1975,8
+ ions, and we further
confirmed it by our own images taken with FFTEM (Figure 2B). Such an encapsulation technology can make impermeable molecules, such as Ca2
bioavailable to tissues, including the skin.9 The effect of this Ca2
+ delivery system on
epidermal differentiation was then investigated in vitro in RHE. The RHE grown in standard
conditions (1.1 mM calcium basal) formed all stratified layers of the epidermis (basal, squamous, granular and cornified) (Figure 3A) with well-established loricrin expression (Figure 4A). Reducing calcium levels during the
differentiation process to 0.3 mM basal calcium, mimicking a very aged or diabetic skin, strongly impaired the formation of a dense, stratified epidermis and led to the formation of vacuoles (Figure 3B). Treating the differentiating keratinocytes with 1.1 mM CaCl2
from the apical side could not restore a functional differentiation
www.personalcaremagazine.com
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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