SUN CARE


49


Developing a ‘cold process’ mineral UV filter sunscreen


Latifa Befanis, Valerie Billebaud, Angelia Peavey – SNF ABSTRACT


Today’s formulators are faced with the challenge of creating sunscreen products that are safer for the environment while maintaining affective protection for consumers. To meet this challenge, formulators have developed sunscreen products with broad-spectrum SPF that provide various levels of protection. However, most sunscreen products are formulated using a process that requires heat (energy). SNF has developed a sunscreen formulation that not only benefits consumers but also the environment. This high SPF index, mineral- based formulation was developed using a process with no heat; therefore, helping to reduce the carbon footprint.


Most people think of using sunscreen only during the hot summer months when they will be in the pool, at the beach or outside for extended periods. In fact, sun protection should be considered all year long. Too much exposure from UV rays can cause


damage to the skin, ranging from sunburn to skin cancer. There are three main types of UV radiation: UVA, UVB and UVC. The classifications are based on their wavelength measurements (Table 1).1 Both UVA and UVB rays are damaging to the


skin; however, they affect the skin differently. UVA rays are the longest wavelengths and can penetrate deep into the skin, potentially causing long-term skin damage, skin cancer, premature


TABLE 1: ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION TYPES AND WAVELENGTHS


UV Type UVA UVB UVC


*Wavelength (nm) 315-399 280-314 100-279 Source: US Center for Disease Control and Prevention


aging, and wrinkles.2 A large percentage of UV


rays that impact the skin are UVA. UVB rays are shorter than the UVA rays and


penetrate the top layer of skin causing sunburn, darkening of the skin, and skin cancer. Much of the UVB radiation is absorbed by the ozone layer. UVC rays are the shortest wavelength of


the three. These wavelengths from the sun are blocked by the ozone layer before they reach the earth, so they do not pose a concern to the skin.


Types of UV filters There are two main types of UV filters approved to develop sunscreen formulations. The first type of UV filters is called chemical ‘organic’ filter. Chemical filters absorb UV rays and convert them into heat that is released. These filters have been used in the industry for several years. The second type of UV filters is called


physical ‘mineral’ filter. Physical filters reflect UV rays by creating a barrier that blocks them. These two categories allow formulators


to experiment with different textures: with chemical sunscreens, the formulations are light but when mineral sunscreens are used the texture is rich. Both types of filters offer benefits and


drawbacks. However, there are more chemical filters approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) than mineral filters (Table 2). Chemical sunscreens usually take about


20 to 30 minutes to activate after application. The recent realization about harmful effects of ingredients such as avobenzone and oxybenzone in chemical sunscreens has been instrumental in the increased demand for mineral-based sunscreens. However, mineral based sunscreen


Figure 1: UV ray penetration of human skin Normal Skin


www.personalcaremagazine.com Skin with Sun Screen


formulations tend to produce a white cast on the skin. To help reduce this effect, manufacturers are producing UV mineral filters


October 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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