NATURALS
■ Treat Formulation A with 5% Natura-tec Crystal Cream ■ Treated Are: Formulation B with 5% Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearylalcohol
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Figure 2: Crystal structure of a formulation containing 5% of Crystal Cream. Microscope: Olympus BX53F2 (40X~1000X). Digital camera: Olympus KCS350 5.1MP 1/2.5” Panasonic CMOS Sensor
obstacle can be surpassed by creating more complex formulations that change the proteins’ chemical structure, thus making it more stable.
Sugar-based emulsifiers The use of sugar-based emulsifiers as a potential alternative to synthetic surface- active agents has significantly increased in different industrial applications. Produced from renewable materials, these actives are environmentally friendly, biodegradable, non- toxic, non-irritating and mild for skin.
Apolar polyesters Highly lipophilic, apolar polyesters form a continuous fat-soluble phase that improve the fluidity of the formula and the compatibility of the ingredients. They have good affinity with the skin, which results in a high moisturising and conditioning effect.
Natura-Tec Crystal Cream™ Rare are the emulsifiers that can form liquid crystal structures, which result from the organisation of molecules in a 3D network. This oil in water (o/w) emulsifier based on sucrose ester and olive unsaponifiables is one of these rare ingredients that reduce the coalescence of oil droplets resulting in a more stable emulsion.
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J+5 min
J+1h J+2h Hours Figure 3: Moisturising effect of Natura-Tec Crystal Cream
Liquid crystal structure and its benefits Liquid crystal emulsions are a different type of emulsions from traditional ones, showing an ordered arrangement of surfactant and oil molecules formed at the oil-water interface. Many studies have shown they have better application performances than conventional emulsion systems, especially in terms of stability and moisturising effects. The shape of the dividing cell changes as
they are being pushed upwards by the newer cells. It gradually becomes flattened at the subsequent layers which are then filled with dead or the nondividing keratinocytes. As a consequence of this continuous division, a strata of about 20-30 layers of interlocking keratinised cell (which are are 0.5 µm in thickness and 30-40 µm wide) is formed. This layer is called stratum corneum (Figure
1). Thus, the similarities with the structure of the stratum corneum and the liquid crystal (Figure 2) creates a greater affinity with the skin, which allows the better transfer of actives and significant moisture retention capacities. A study has been conducted to compare
the moisturizing effect of a formulation containing 5% of Crystal Cream with another one containing 5% of ceteareth-6 and Stearylalcohol (palm-derived O/W standard emulsifier). As shown in Figure 3, Formulation A
with Natura-Tec Crystal Cream showed an immediate hydration effect that almost lasts for eight hours, surpassing the hydration effect of the standard emulsifier ceteareth-6 and Stearylalcohol. This study confirms the high importance of the crystal structure in conferring to the emulsifier a strong power of hydration.
Natura-Tec Emulactive™ W Based on wheat protein derivatives, Emulactive W is an anionic/non-ionic natural mild O/W emulsifier that forms a liquid crystal system (Figure 4) that helps the delivery of active substances into the skin. It is compatible with all skin types and forms a protective film due to its long time to penetrate the skin. Therefore, it provides and maintains a high level of hydration.
Natura-Tec Ecomuls™ 2 in 1 This 100% vegetable water in oil (W/O) emulsifier, based on a unique association of natural glycerides and olive unsaponifiables, presents high emulsifying effect and forms a protective film on the skin, providing and maintaining a high level of hydration. A study has been made to compare the
skin moisturizing gain after application of a formulation containing 5% of Ecomuls 2 in 1 and a formulation containing 5% of
■ Formulation with 5% Natura-tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 ■ Placebo Formulation with 5% PEG-30 Dypolyhydroxystearate
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Figure 4: Crystal structure of a formulation containing 5% Emulactive W
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J+5 min
J+1h J+2h Hours Figure 5: Moisturising effect of Natura-Tec Ecomuls 2 in 1 October 2022 PERSONAL CARE J+3h J+6h J+8h J+3h J+6h J+8h
35
% Moisturising gain
% Moisturising gain
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