NATURALS
The anti-ageing efficacy of cranberry biopeptides
Mélanie Coirier, Pauline Minet, Elodie Aymard, Emilie Lasjaunias, Brigitte Closs - Silab
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Since 1984, Silab has been an expert in the engineering of peptides. This expertise began initially with peptides from animal origin, but the company rapidly switched to those from plant origin and integrated more recently those from biotechnological origin as well. As a result, very specific processes of enzymatic engineering have been developed to select and extract these biopeptides. The latter are particularly appreciated on the
cosmetic market, due to their multiple benefits covering skin repair, protection and immunity and, of course, their capacity to fight the signs of ageing.
Peptides - valuable allies in anti- ageing cosmetics There is a plethora of offers in anti-ageing active ingredients. In order to find their way around, consumers require trust and reassurance, which is why they direct their choices toward active molecules known for their powerful cosmetic efficacy and safety. Among these so-called reference molecules are retinol, niacinamide, vitamins C and E, and also peptides. The latter have even become preponderant in cosmetic formulas because of their potent action and safety. Most peptides on the market are synthetic, provided by the chemical industry.1
This industrial synthesis has been made possible
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by the relatively simple molecular structure of peptides that are composed of short linear chains of about ten amino acids. Synthetic peptides are without doubt highly effective but have the inconvenience of being restricted to one biological target. The plant kingdom, for its part, contains
an extremely broad diversity of molecules, among which natural peptides, that stand out as very promising active compounds. Due to their molecular richness, these biopeptides have the capacity to act transversally on several biological targets. At the level of the skin, they can thus have a
positive impact on the different compartments (epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), and dermis). Although some natural peptides exist in their
free form, most are derived from native proteins from which they are released by hydrolysis. Some plants are natural protein sources, just as plant co-products from the food processing industry such as press cakes.2
In this context, Silab has
decided to explore the peptides molecular richness of cranberry fruit press cakes.
An upcycling approach: from the superfruit to potent biopeptides The sustainable supply of a co-product of cranberries The cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) is a
ABSTRACT
Due to their molecular richness and diversity, natural biopeptides have the capacity to act transversally on several biological targets, which is a remarkable advantage in the fight against the cutaneous disorders induced by ageing. Based on this observation, Silab developed a natural anti-ageing active ingredient, purified to 95% in natural biopeptides from a co-product of the cranberry, sourced from a responsible and traceable supply. With its ability to act on the three compartments of the skin, it provides a rapid and potent anti-ageing action, thus responding to the requirements of consumers in terms of efficacy, transversality and naturality.
small red fruit native to North America. Native Americans have always appreciated its tangy taste and used it in traditional medicine. Today, this superfruit is considered to be a health food throughout the world. The first step to obtain a fruit press cake
of cranberry is the extraction of the juice. Residual seeds and pulp are then recovered and cold pressed to extract the oil. This second extraction yields an oil-free press cake. The concentration of plant proteins in this
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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