40 NATURALS
Figure 1: Process for the extraction of biopeptides from a cranberry co-product
co-product makes it a valuable resource that Silab decided to harness to produce a natural anti-ageing active ingredient. To this end, the company has prioritised an environment- friendly supply chain by working with a supplier that applies a responsible approach and ensures the traceability and securing of the raw material. More specifically, Silab has selected a
family-owned company in Quebec that is a global leader in the production and processing of cranberries. This supplier is committed to practices of sustainable development with respect to both its culture techniques - water used for harvesting and protecting plants from frost recycled - and its capacity for obtaining added value from each co-product resulting from cranberry processing. This responsible sourcing thus illustrates
the company’s mastery of natural, as well as its committed approach to sustainability through the beneficial use of co-products.
A unique enzymatic process adapted to biopeptides To add value to this raw material, a specific eco-extraction process was developed, based on the company’s expertise in enzymatic engineering. The sequential action of two proteases allows the optimised extraction of all biopeptides of interest from the cranberry fruit press cake. A molecular separation step followed by an ion chromatography purification leads to the selection of biopeptides rich in basic amino acids and
AGED FIBROBLASTS Control 0.1% cranberry fruit press cake extract
whose size is included between 200 and 2,000 Da (Figure 1). The association of the cranberry fruit press
cake and this specific controlled process has enabled to obtain a fraction purified to 95% in natural biopeptides, conferring the efficacy to the active ingredient. The unicity of the association between
this manufacturing process and the cranberry co-product has been demonstrated, since the application of the same process on a milk thistle (Silybum marianum L.) press cake, which exhibits similarities in terms of protein content, does not allow to obtain an effective active ingredient.
A rapid and potent efficacy Targeted transcriptomics analysis Homeostasis of the skin is controlled by a set of complex mechanisms operating in the different cutaneous compartments (epidermis, DEJ and dermis). In order to determine the activity of the cranberry fruit press cake extract on these three compartments, a targeted transcriptomics study was implemented. It included 34 genes involved in the different processes related to establishing the physical or chemical epidermal barrier function, the DEJ and matrix dynamics. The results showed that, among 34 genes
evaluated, 76% exhibit an expression that is modified during ageing, reflecting a major impact on the three compartments. At the level of the epidermis, when tested
at 0.5% on old keratinocytes, the cranberry fruit press cake extract significantly regulates
the expression of genes related to proliferation (Ki-67: +41%), differentiation (loricrin: +75% and filaggrin: +47%), cohesion (claudin-1: +30%) and anti-free radical defense (SOD1: +12%). At the level of the dermis, when tested at
0.5% on old fibroblasts, it has a significant action on the expression of genes related to matrix organisation (collagen I: +24% and elastin: +28%) and its degradation (MMP-1: -37%). The cranberry fruit press cake extract thus normalised the expression of 81% of the deregulated genes.
Multi-target biological activity on the three compartments of the skin This efficacy potential was confirmed at the cellular level. Tested at 0.5% on old SilabSkin® RE reconstructed epidermis, the active ingredient significantly restores epidermal thickness by 100%, cell proliferation (Ki-67: +86%), as well as epidermal differentiation (loricrin: +49%), cohesion (claudin-1: +70%) and hydration (aquaporin 3: +74%). Therefore, it enables a functional and hydrated barrier to be maintained. At the level of the DEJ, when tested at
0.5% on old keratinocytes, the cranberry fruit press cake extract increases the expression of collagens IV and VII - key markers of the structural organisation of the basal lamina - by 35% and 22% respectively. Finally, at the level of the dermis, the active
ingredient tested on old fibroblasts significantly increases the production of the collagen I network by 54% at 0.1% (Figure 2) and the
177 x103
AU PERSONAL CARE October 2022
211 x103***
AU
Figure 2: Capacity of the cranberry fruit press cake extract to restore the synthesis of collagen I by aged fibroblasts Result(s)/aged fibroblasts control: ***: P < 0.001
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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