NATURALS
Sensorial profile before and after application of natural emulsifiers Figure 7 shows the main differences between the three natural emulsifiers, right at application. While the Ecomuls 2 in 1 has a significant
body characteristic, the Crystal Cream is easily and rapidly absorbed by the skin and the Emulactive W presents a very good spreadability. Figure 8 shows the sensorial properties
of the three different emulsifiers becomes very similar after application. They all result in a very desirable sensation of comfort, protection, softness and smoothness with a rapid absorption and a non-greasy feel.
Co-emulsifier ingredients - palm-free solutions Natura-Tec Abysoft™ Natura-Tec Abysoft is a multitasking performance enhancer active, having conditioning and deep moisturising properties (Table 1). It is a 100% natural ingredient produced from the combination of crambe oil and phytosterols. To show its co-emulsifying property, we performed a study in a solution containing water and sweet almond oil, comparing it to paraffinum liquidum and the co-emulsifier Glyceryl oleate (Figure 9). The aim of the test was to measure the
separation time of the mixture with the presence of the three co-emulsifiers at different concentrations. The longer it takes to separate, the better the emulsifying property. In this test, paraffinium liquidum is considered as a blank. Compared to Glyceryl oleate, the active showed close results in stabilising the oil phase in emulsion.
Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base is a multifunctional, 100% natural derived base, presenting co-emulsifying and self- emulsifying properties. Owing to its crystal
TABLE 1: HANGOVER GLOWING SERUM (1803C-HGS) Phase Ingredients
INCI A Deionized Water
Satiaxane CX911 (ACEF) Amaze XT (Akzonobel) Natura-Tec Rice Starch
B Natura-Tec Abysoft
Natura-Tec Marine CellShield AP™
Covapearl sparkling gold 238 (LCW)
Covapearl pink 433 (LCW) C Natura-Tec Rice Starch Geogard ECT
Aqua (Water) Xanthan Gum
Dehydroxanthan Gum Oryza sativa (rice) Starch
Crambe abyssinica Seed Oil Phytosterol Esters
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Pavlova Lutheri extract
CI 77891 (and) Mica CI 77891 (and) Mica Oryza sativa (rice) Starch
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
www.personalcaremagazine.com ■ Paraffinum Liquidum ■ Natura-Tec Abysoft ■ Glyceryl Oleate 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 2% 5% 7% 10%
Figure 9: Co-emulsifier stability test comparison of paraffinium liquidum, Natura-Tec Abysoft and Glyceryl oleate
network design and ability to bind water in anhydrous formulations, this emulsifier helps create innovative textures with a silicone feel at application, a good absorption and a velvety finish (Table 2). Due to its special texture, two formulations and one finished product based on the Natural BBB Beauty Balm Base have won awards; a RepairTopic Gel-in-Oil won the Sensory Bar silver award at in-cosmetics Global 2022, an eyeshadow won the Make-up Bar award at in-cosmetics North America 2019 and a finished product was awarded ‘Best Solid Body Moisturizer’ by Organic Beauty 2022.
w/w (%) 79.10 0.10 0.20 5.50
10.00 2.00 0.70
0.60 1.00
0.80
Conclusion Consumer concerns about environmental and human health have encouraged the personal care industry to go for renewable materials as alternatives to synthetics, which are produced through chemical reactions from non-renewable resources. Nothing can beat a natural emulsifier that can be both effective and safe for the skin and the planet. This article demonstrates the amazing skin
affinity of natural emulsifiers, higher moisturising effects and beautiful textures for end-products, providing good skin feel for consumers while meeting ecofriendly and sustainable expectations.
PC
TABLE 2: BOOSTING REPAIRTOPIC TREATMENT (1901H-BRT) Phase Ingredients
INCI
A Natural BBB - Beauty Balm Base
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Butyrospermum parkii Butter (and) Tocopherol
Natura-Tec Abysoft B Deionized Water
C Natura-Tec Marine OceanMist CL™
Natural Vitamine E Geogard ECT
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil Phytosterol Esters
Aqua (Water)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Nanno- chloropsis oceanica Extract
(and) Phytocholesterol* pending registration
Tocopherol
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid
0.50 0.5 w/w (%)
37
42.50
40.00 15.00 1.50
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Separation time (mins)
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