64 HAIR STYLING
The green future of dandruff control
Dr. Florian Genrich, Laura Meunier, Dr. Steffen Nordzieke – Symrise
The global personal care market for dandruff control is dominated by shampoo applications, but also features other rinse-off formulations such as conditioner or even leave-on uses like tonics. The market follows similar dynamics to the global hair care market.1 Among the top three hair care brands
globally, there is already one exclusive brand for dandruff control: Head & Shoulders by Procter & Gamble has been a classic example for use of the biggest traditional anti-dandruff active globally: zinc pyrithione. The two other traditional actives frequently used are piroctone olamine (Octopirox® by Clariant) and Climbazole (Crinipan® AD by Symrise). While these anti-dandruff actives primarily
aim to limit Malassezia´s excessive activity on scalp, salicylic acid is often used for keratolytic effects, supporting the removal of dead skin flakes (dandruff).2
Considering
European legislation, ‘anti-dandruff’ is a common cosmetic claim, not subject to specific legislation other than the generic rules from the EU cosmetic regulation. The US FDA, on the other hand, only permits zinc pyrithione and salicylic acid as anti-dandruff actives out of above listed ingredients.3 The market for anti-dandruff shampoos is
dominated by global brands and a combination of more than one active has always been common practice. Combining either one of the conventional three anti-fungal ingredients with keratolytic effects from salicylic acid is one of the approaches. As an example, climbazole and salicylic
acid have been part of Henkel´s Schwarzkopf Seborin shampoo.4
Other mixed uses are also
documented, such as Unilever´s anti-dandruff shampoo CLEAR listed zinc pyrithione next to climbazole.5 In addition, Beiersdorf applied piroctone olamine in combination with climbazole in their NIVEA shampoos,6
was found next to piroctone olamine in Wella anti-dandruff shampoos.7
while zinc pyrithione Procter & Gamble´s
new European market shampoos use piroctone olamine next to salicylic acid´s sodium salt as part of the INCI list.8 The European ban of zinc pyrithione
from cosmetic use in 2022, triggered by the ingredient´s reprotoxic classification, forces manufacturers to move away from this technology.9
This limits the amount of anti-
dandruff actives available for formulators. In 2020, Symrise has launched an entirely
PERSONAL CARE October 2022
new green technology for dandruff control, targeting Malassezia like the traditional actives, but featuring a novel and innovative mode of action in doing so.10
Propanediol caprylate
(Crinipan PMC green) reduces dandruff significantly compared to placebo and equally vs. positive control (climbazole) in a 30 days shampoo study.11 Further studies have shown that the
material supports a healthier scalp microbiome and also brings a lot of additional benefits like ease of handling, benefits for skin and hair, and sebum reduction.12
Effectiveness of propanediol caprylate vs. piroctone olamine In light of the European ban of zinc pyrithione from cosmetics, only two major conventional technologies are left for anti-dandruff shampoo manufacturers: piroctone olamine and climbazole. Having shown the effectiveness of our new green technology - propanediol caprylate - in comparison to climbazole as positive control previously,11
we aimed for a
second comparison study versus piroctone olamine. A very common and known to be effective
use level for anti-dandruff actives is 0.5% in shampoo. This use level also reflects climbazole´s previous maximum dose, allowed in cosmetics as per the European Cosmetics Regulation until 2019. In 2019, a regulation change occurred that fixed new limits by application. As a result, climbazole may be
used in rinse-off anti-dandruff shampoo up to 2% today (Annex III/310), but has lower use levels in other applications (Annex V/32).13 To study propanediol caprylate in
comparison to piroctone olamine, either one of the ingredients was added to two separate, but identical clear and unperfumed sodium laureth sulfate shampoo bases at 0.5% use level each (Table 1). Twenty-one preselected volunteers with
dandruff and greasy scalp followed a 14-day, pre-conditioning procedure in which they were instructed to only wash their hair with a standardized neutral market shampoo without active, previously provided by the external institute. After the conditioning phase, 12 subjects applied the test shampoo (randomized, blind study) with propanediol caprylate and nine subjects the positive control using piroctone olamine. The test shampoos were applied three times a week using a three-minute incubation time before rinsing. The visual dandruff score was rated by a
dermatologist directly before the first product application at the end of the conditioning phase (D0), and at the end of the testing period, after 28 days (D28). Dandruff was rated on a zero to five visual scale for adherent and non-adherent flakes separately. The sum of the two individual scores provides a total dandruff score on a resulting scale of zero to ten (Figure 1).
A statistically significant decrease in the
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