94 MALE GROOMING
their skin density. Based on these findings, Peptovitae Matrix at 2% was shown to improve signs of skin photoageing by demonstrating a facial lifting effect, less facial skin sagging and a reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles. Consumers may also perceive their skin to be lifted, smoother, more elastic and hydrated.
Conclusion The development of Peptovitae Matrix was inspired by the growing popularity of the dermocosmetic market. Consumers today are consistently on the watch for premium skincare ingredients which can deliver potent, visible efficacy to protect themselves from visible signs of skin ageing. Peptovitae Matrix demonstrated to act
in vitro on the pathways involved in oxidative stress and photoageing. The biomimetic peptide showed a positive impact on the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, while protecting the cells against UV-induced accumulation of reactive oxygen species, cytotoxicity, and apoptosis. At the gene level, Peptovitae Matrix was also able to counteract UVA-induced down- regulation of genes encoding for ECM proteins (pro-collagen type 1, elastin, fibronectin) in fibroblasts along with a protective effect on UVB-induced down-regulation of sirtuin-1 and aquaporin-3 genes in keratinocytes. In vivo testing of Peptovitae Matrix at
2%, translated to improving signs of skin photoageing with a visual improvement of facial lifting (skin sagging) while contributing to the reduced appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles to help achieve the beauty aspirations of the consumers.
References 1. Lupo MP, Cole AL. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy. 2007 Nov 28;20(5):343–9
2. Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009 Oct;31(5):327–45
3. Zhang L, Falla TJ. Cosmeceuticals and peptides. Clinics in Dermatology. 2009 Sep;27(5):485– 94
4. Reddy B, Jow T, Hantash BM. Bioactive oligopeptides in dermatology: Part I. Experimental Dermatology. 2012 Jun 4;21(8):563–8
5. Fosgerau K, Hoffmann T. Peptide therapeutics: current status and future directions. Drug Discovery Today. 2015 Jan;20(1):122–8
6. Schagen S. Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results. Cosmetics. 2017 May 22;4(2):16
7. Rangarajan V, Dreher F. (2010) Topical Growth Factors for Skin Rejuvenation. In: Farage M.A., Miller K.W., Maibach H.I. (eds.) Textbook of Ageing Skin. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-540-89656- 2_100
8. Fabi S, Sundaram H. The Potential of Topical and Injectable Growth Factors and Cytokines for Skin Rejuvenation. Facial Plastic Surgery. 2014 May 8;30(02):157–71.
PERSONAL CARE March 2023 smoothness Skin (**) Facial lifting
90% 80% 70% 60% 50%
(*) (°) (*)
Elasticity at the skin surface
Placebo ■ Peptovitae Matrix at 2% ■
(°) (**) Skin hydration Skin density
Statistics: Percentage on positive answer on Good or Very good efficacy on 20 volunteers Two- tailed binomial test (°) p<0.1 - Trend (*) p<0.05 (**) p<0.01
Figure 13: Self-assessment on several parameters which obtained ‘good and very good’ efficacy upon application of Peptovitae Matrix at 2% versus the placebo
9. Husein El Hadmed H, Castillo RF. Cosmeceuticals: peptides, proteins, and growth factors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2016 Dec 1;15(4):514–9. Available from: https://
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/27142709/
10. Huang AH, Chien AL. Photoaging: a Review of Current Literature. Current Dermatology Reports. 2020 Jan 20;9(1):22–9
PC
11. Bentov I, Damodarasamy M, Plymate S, Reed MJ. Decreased proliferative capacity of aged dermal fibroblasts in a three dimensional matrix is associated with reduced IGF1R expression and activation. Biogerontology. 2014 Apr 26;15(4):329–37
12. Poljšak B, Dahmane R. Free Radicals and Extrinsic Skin Aging. Dermatol. Res. Pract. 13520, 2012
13. Kammeyer A, Luiten RM. Oxidation events and skin ageing. Ageing Research Reviews. 2015 May;21:16–29. PMID: 25653189
14. Cao C, Lu S, Kivlin R, Wallin B, Card E, Bagdasarian A, et al. SIRT1 confers protection against UVB- and H2O2-induced cell death via modulation of p53 and JNK in cultured skin keratinocytes. Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine. 2009 Aug 4;13(9b):3632– 43
15. Cao C, Wan S, Jiang Q, Amaral A, Lu S, Hu G et al. All-trans retinoic acid attenuates ultraviolet radiation-induced down-regulation of aquaporin-3 and water permeability in human keratinocytes. Journal of Cellular Physiology. 2008;215(2):506–15
16. Lewis DA, Travers JB, Somani A-K, Spandau DF. The IGF-1/IGF-1R signaling axis in the skin: a new role for the dermis in aging-associated skin cancer. Oncogene. 2009 Dec 7;29(10):1475–85
17. Schreiber BD, Hughes ML, Groggel GC. Insulin- like growth factor-1 stimulates production of mesangial cell matrix components. Clin. Nephrol. 1995 Jun;43(6):368-74. PMID: 7554520
18. Brugts MP, Ranke MB, Hofland LJ, van der Wansem K, Weber K, Frystyk J, et al. Normal
Values of Circulating Insulin-Like Growth Factor-I Bioactivity in the Healthy Population: Comparison with Five Widely Used IGF-I Immunoassays. The Journal of Clinical Endocrinology & Metabolism. 2008 Jul 1;93(7):2539
19. Ferber A, Chang C, Sell C, Ptasznik A, Cristofalo VJ, Hubbard K, et al. Failure of senescent human fibroblasts to express the insulin-like growth factor-1 gene. Journal of Biological Chemistry. 1993 Aug;268(24):17883
20. Loesch MM, Collier AE, Southern DH, Ward RE, Tholpady SS, Lewis DA, et al. Insulin-like growth factor-1 receptor regulates repair of ultraviolet B-induced DNA damage in human keratinocytes in
vivo.Molecular Oncology. 2016 Jun 16;10(8):1245–54
21 Zouboulis CC, Makrantonaki E. Clinical aspects and molecular diagnostics of skin aging. Clinics in Dermatology. 2011 Jan;29(1):3
22. Hassan AM, Elgarhy LH, Mohammad WS, Farag NE. Relation of insulin-like growth factor to skin aging. Journal of the Egyptian Women's Dermatologic Society. 2015 Sep;12(3):174
23. Noordam R, Gunn DA, Tomlin CC, Maier AB, Griffiths T, Catt SD, Ogden S, Slagboom PE, Westendorp RG, Griffiths CE, van Heemst D, de Craen AJ; Leiden Longevity Study group. Serum insulin-like growth factor 1 and facial ageing: high levels associate with reduced skin wrinkling in a cross-sectional study. Br. J. Dermatol. 2013 Mar;168(3):533-8. doi: 10.1111/ bjd.12131. Epub 2013 Jan 31. PMID: 23363376
24. Tavakkol A, Varani J, Elder JT, Zouboulis ChC. Maintenance of human skin in organ culture: role for insulin-like growth factor-1 receptor and epidermal growth factor receptor. Archives of Dermatological Research. 1999 Dec 14;291(12):643–51
25. Mainzer C, Remoué N, Molinari J, Rousselle P, Barricchello C, Lago JC, et al. In vitro epidermis model mimicking IGF-1-specific age-related decline. Experimental Dermatology. 2018 May;27(5):537–43
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103