NATURALS


37


the social score and the environmental score. The social score is made of five criteria or


points given one or two points each: ■ Organic product certification, 2 points ■ Made in France, 1 point ■ At least one social commitment promoting biodiversity or therapeutic education or fight against social insecurity, 2 points ■ One bonus point if the product contains at least one fair trade ingredient, and or has French origin guarantee certificate, or is accredited by the Vegan Society. The environmental score includes far more


parameters so it is subdivided into four groups or scores: ■ Packaging score, 4 points given by seven packaging related parameters ■ Formula score, 3 points based on biodegradability within 28 days, naturalness and number of ingredients or sterile formulas ■ Manufacturing score, 2 points derived from organically farmed ingredients, active ingredients obtained without solvent extraction, production site with ISO 14001 certification ■ Transportation score, 1 point based on geographical origin of raw materials The total score of 15 is then adjusted to 20,


of which one third is given by the social score and two thirds by the environmental score. A is given for values between 15 and 20, B between 10 and 15, C 5 to 10, D 0 to 5. The all process is verified and validated by a third party, which is AFNOR certification.


Mark or score? This is not an easy question to answer. All the systems have interesting points and some weaknesses as well, as they aspire to decode the underlying complexity behind sustainable beauty in different ways. However, ideally we need one global


system that is comprehensive, transparent and accessible to consumers and the all industry.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Raw materials suppliers will not be prepared or willing to invest in all the systems as providing the required data in different formats is going to be very expensive, translating into much higher ingredients prices. Consumers can also end up being more confused than ever before. To unravel this dilemma, I would like to run


a poll on Linkedin asking you to choose one of the six systems plus two more options for other and none of them. Feel free also to add your comment. My Linkedin profile is listed below,7


and


I will leave the poll running for the month of April. To know more about preservation for certified beauty products check my virtual handbook on green chemistry cosmetic preservation.8


References 1. COSMOS. https://www.cosmos-standard. org/en


2. Natrue. https://www.natrue.org/ 3. European Commission. Commission Decision (EU) 2021/1870 of 22 October 2021 establishing the EU Ecolabel criteria for cosmetic products and animal care products. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/ dec/2021/1870/oj


4. Eco Beauty Score. https://www. ecobeautyscore.com/


5. The Estée Lauder Companies Publishes Methodology to Drive Sustainable Cosmetics Innovation & Strengthen Environmental, Social & Governance Commitments https://www.elcompanies. com/en/news-and-media/newsroom/ press-releases/2021/12-8-2021


6. Pierre Fabre. The Green Impact Index. https://www.pierre-fabre.com/en/our- commitments/the-green-impact-index


7. LinkedIn. https://www.linkedin.com/in/dr- barbara-olioso-mrsc-b32a3411/


8. The Green Chemist Consultancy. https:// school.thegreenchemist.com/


PC March 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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