NATURALS
tocotrienols. Subcritical fluid extraction could be a useful extraction technology to obtain high- quality almond oil.17 The examples show how by selecting
different extraction techniques, the composition can change. It is therefore important for the formulator to discuss the extraction procedure with the suppliers in order to obtain the specific profile he/she is looking for or otherwise to look for suppliers providing a product extracted with the technique that suits a particular chemical property.
Discussion It is important to understand the effects of environmental conditions on plant quality parameters. The same plant growing in different environments will show variance in its chemical components. Although the identification of the fatty acid composition of the oil is determined genetically, high temperature during the growing period, and especially during seed development, can result in a lower concentration of unsaturated fatty acids or poorer oil quality.1 The high temperature was associated with
a reduction in total oil yield and a decrease in the more unsaturated components- linoleic acid while increasing oleic acid content in seeds of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) exposed to different temperatures.18 Drought and heat have been the most
essential stresses affecting tocopherol content in almonds (Prunus amygdalus), with increased levels at water deficit and higher temperatures. The usage of the right cultivar and regimes for growing almonds positively affect the tocopherol content in almond kernels.19 In addition to heat and water deficit,
further research has shown that increasing the intensity of ultraviolet B radiation, total phenols, flavonoids and anthocyanin contents, phenylalanine ammonia-lyase activity and antioxidant capacity of rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) were increased.20 Environmental pressure and constraints on
a plant will influence its chemical signature and will also eventually select genotypes creating specific endemic varieties.
Conclusion In today’s cosmetic industry market, consumers are looking for quality products, i.e superior safety, and efficacy. In this article, factors that influence the chemical composition and concentration of the plant extract were presented. Plant material with the same INCI name can be different in molecular composition based on the plant’s geographical location and how the plant components are extracted. All these factors are critical for the ingredient
properties that will be a part of a finished cosmetic product. Demanding the analytical composition of a specific extract and material in particular for its active ingredients as well as possible toxic contaminants, it is essential to guarantee the best efficacy and safety compliance.
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March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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