Volume 24 Issue 3
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
6 9
Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Natura-Tec News
98 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Moving with the times Isabel Almiro do Vale, global marketing and strategy director for personal care at Dow, talks to editor Tim Probert about the US giant’s strategy, sustainability and the latest global trends
21 in-cosmetics Global preview An in-depth look at in-cosmetics Global 2023, which takes place in Barcelona on 28-30 March. More than 850 leading personal care ingredient suppliers will showcase over 2,800 ingredients, helping R&D professionals discover the latest, newly launched ingredients for new product development
35 Green marks and green scores:
a guide Barbara Olioso of The Green Chemist Consultancy examines the various beauty standards available on the market, including COSMOS, Natrue and the EU Ecolabel, as well as new scoring initiatives by big brands on the scene: the Eco Beauty Score, the Green Score and the Green Impact Index
39 Naturals: why chemical
composition matters New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Giorgio Dell’Acqua and formulator Antonia Kostic explain the importance of chemical composition in natural ingredients used in personal care and the impact it can have on efficacy
43 Novel natural fine wax
powders for boosting SPF Micro Powders, Inc. has found that by micronizing select natural waxes, multiple benefits in sun care formulations can be achieved, including boosting SPF in both organic and inorganic sunscreens
48 Signposting career
opportunities in cosmetics Many people working in the sector say the pathways into jobs and careers in the cosmetics and beauty industry were not well described or signposted during their formative education. Dr Gillian Westgate of Cosmetics Cluster UK sets about
trying to find out why and what could be done
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March 2023 PERSONAL CARE 53 Raspberry multifunctional
for sustainable benefits This article concentrates on Ashland’s raspberry multifunctional ingredient, which enables formulators to implement a sound preservation strategy and to substantiate secondary claims
based on consistent in-depth analysis 59 The role of lipid peroxidation
in skin health UK start-up Kutanios explains how the protective effect of high-density lipoproteins (HDL, commonly known as ‘good’ cholesterol) against heart disease could be transferred to skincare via peptides that
protect against the toxic effects of lipid peroxides 63 Biotechnologies opening
culture and small and rare macroalgae culture 69 The dawn of designed
enzymatic biopolymers IFF Health & Biosciences has been working on a biocatalysis process to enable development of tailored polysaccharides. This innovation – Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) – gives rise to a new-to-the-world class of alpha-glucan polysaccharides from the enzymatic polymerization of glucose from sucrose with controlled morphology
and structure 73 The beauty of biodesign:
new frontier for collagen Geltor examines the use of biodesign to make it possible to produce vegan human collagen that is 100% animal free, halal, safe, highly soluble in water, colourless, odourless, and non-GMO, as well as certified readily biodegradable and USDA
BioPreferred certifiable
new beauty possibilities Seppic demonstrates the advantages in terms of phytochemistry and efficacy on cosmetic products derived from biotechnologies such as plant cell
78 Novel cosmetic ingredient
for oral hygiene Symrise has developed a liquid blend combination of phenylpropanol, o-cymen- 5-ol, and decylene glycol is a modern cosmetic hygiene ingredient that provides significant antimicrobial efficacy for oral care products
82 Red kapok flower extract
for intimate care Laboratoires Expanscience explains how its red kapok flower extract ingredient is suitable for intimate care via a clinical study that demonstrated its protective effect on vaginal flora and on comfort
87 Using natural butylene glycol in
personal care Genomatica says its natural butylene glycol eliminates the need for chemical catalysis and
petrochemical feedstocks 90 Reprogramming skin with
biomimetic peptides BASF on its new biomimetic peptides that address various skin concerns such as ageing, enhancing melanin degradation, acne prone skin, to reducing
inflammatory effects in sensitized skin 95 Meeting the anti-frizz, durable
shape challenge Polycare Frizz Therapy leads Solvay’s efforts to support durable shape technology in the hair care industry
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