IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL PREVIEW Also new is PhytOrient, a blend of four plants Corum (AG60) will showcase IP-VC (INCI


name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate), an advanced esterified Vitamin C derivative said to provide superb anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle effects. It also serves as a potent skin rejuvenating active that brightens skin, revitalizes ECM content and retains moisture by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin as well as boosting the synthesis of collagen, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans, leaving skin soft, smooth, moisturized, supple, firmer and plumped.


CP Kelco (AM40) will introduce Kelcosens


Citrus Fiber. Upcycled from citrus peels, it is a new kind of ingredient technology to help stabilize emulsifier-free skin care products and deliver SENSational textures. There will be a technical seminar on 29 March in Theatre 3 at 13:35. The company will also present innovations


designed to help formulators achieve circularity in their beauty and personal care products. Its portfolio features an extensive range of responsibly produced, readily biodegradable ingredients, made by fermentation and optimized extraction such as: Arbalon Cellulose Liquid, Genu Pectin, Kelcogel Gellan Gum, Keltrol Xanthan Gum, Kelco-Care Diutan Gum, Genu Carrageenan and Uniqsens SFE Emulsifier-Free System.


inspired by TCM prescriptions found in ancient texts and made using an optimised manufacturing process combining heritage and modern science. Crodarom says the 99.4% natural ingredient restores the skin balance by stimulating the body’s own regenerative mechanisms.


Dr. Paul Lohmann (AL67) will showcase


its range of mineral salts that are promoted in line with the ‘beauty from within’ concept. The nutricosmetics are taken orally and are said to have a systemic effect that leads to an improved appearance and condition of skin, hair and nails. The organic salts are designed to be used


in ingredients in nutricosmetics due to their beneficial properties such as high bioavailability and good tolerability when used. Zinc Gluconate (INCI name: Zinc Gluconate), for example, protects against excessive acne and helps the skin heal smaller lesions due to the anti-bacterial and anti- inflammatory properties of zinc.


Dow (N90) will launch ECOllaboration


2.0, a collection of eight beauty formulations achieving a minimum natural origin content of 90% in each prototype. These concepts collection showcases Dow’s commitment to using natural and eco-friendly ingredients. It features inclusive prototypes, and places a strong focus on sustainability, without compromising on performance and safety for people.


Eastman (D50) will show case broad portfolio Croda


Croda (J50) will this year focus on wellbeing, which has become a key driver of consumer behaviour in the personal care industry. The importance of self-care will be reflected across specially designed zones on the Croda stand for skin care, solar care, hair care and fragrance. A formulation bar will take centre stage on


stand, showcasing how Croda and its brands synergistically combine to offer formulation inspiration across skin care, solar care, hair care and fragrance.


Crodarom (J50) will unveil Zanthocare, a 100% natural and COSMOS-approved multifunctional and universal ingredient eco- designed to provide a holistic care to each area of the body. Quantified in Xanthoxylin, it is extracted from Sichuan berry, which has been part of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) since ancient times. The new extract acts on various factors and offers protective and soothing properties. It also fights against the causes of bad body odour while respecting the skin microbiome, and has been designed for body positive, inclusive beauty and wellbeing trends.


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of specialty ingredients to empower formulators to create products that meet new consumer expectations for beauty, sustainability, comfort, and reflecting their best. These include Eastman Sustane CG 200 fragrance fixative for a prolonged sensation of the ‘fresh from the bottle’ experience of fragrances. This is done by extending the top notes duration, keeping the original character of precious fragrances longer. Also on show is Eastman GEM Retinoids


Eastman GEM technology featuring high selectivity and mild reaction conditions that offer unique retinyl derivatives as retinol alternatives. With a carefully selected functional alcohol and acid, the ester derivatives can provide superior performance, increased stability, and better skin compatibility compared to the starting materials


Evonik (V30) will unveil its new


biodegradable, naturally sourced film former with superior performance. Tego Filmstar One MB supports various cosmetic formulations that require water resistant functionality and sun protection. Fully derived from natural, renewable raw


materials, Tego Filmstar One MB provides superior sensorial benefits and broad formulation compatibility, while demonstrating similar performance to fossil and non-biodegradable film formers.


Fruit d’Or (AM70) is launching CranOra, a


cold-pressed COSMOS-certified organic and upcycled cranberry seed oil. Soon to debut in an upscale global brand, the cranberry seed oil is rich in omega-3, -6 and -9, as well as high in vitamin


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E tocopherols and tocotrienols plus polyphenols and beta carotene. The oil comes from cranberry seed generated


by the Canadian company’s dried fruit production in Quebec and upcycled to extract the oil. This reduces residual materials at the company’s production facilities. Fruit d’Or organic cranberry seed oil is produced with non-GMO ingredients and contains no parabens, phenoxyethanol, synthetic perfumes and dyes or other petrochemical ingredients. Fruit d’Or says the cranberry seed oil is suitable


for skin and facial care including moisturizers, masks, eye creams and balms, as well as hair care including shampoo, conditioner and hair masks.


Gattefossé Gattefossé (G80) will introduce Emulium


Dermolea MB, its latest O/W natural and skin- friendly emulsifier. Due to its unique composition of plant lipids, this texture ingredient helps reducing stress (ex vivo) and brings a long-term soothing effect (in vivo) to the skin. This makes it possible to obtain a moisturizing


and protective base that shows perfect tolerance and provides support to the first barrier of the skin. Emulsions based on Emulium Dermolea MB are perfectly adapted to all skin types and climates.


Givaudan (L50) will launch three


“gamechangers” coming from its Active Beauty biotechnology research. The first one, Gravityl has been discovered in the company’s marine biotechnology Centre of Excellence, using the power of sunlight and the capture of CO2


to make


it happen, with unbelievable skin benefits. The goal with this ingredient is really to solve the consequences of a physical phenome-non on the skin, gravity, with a biological response. The second innovation, PrimalHyal Hydra[+],


is breaking the rules of moisturization: for the first time in the beauty world, it is claimed, it beats the hydration power of hyaluronic acid. The company has performed a series of experiments to demonstrate that both in rinse-off and leave- on applications, the new cationic HA brings better performances than standard grades by at least a factor of two. The last product, RetiLife, is the first active


ingredient of its kind to offer a sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy. With 100% natural-origin content, including sunflower oil as a carrier, the composition of RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate. Its molecule is identical to its chemical counterpart.


March 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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