56 NATURALS Collagenase inhibition ■ Elastase inhibition ■
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
gallic acid 0.5% phyteq raspberry 0.5%
Figure 6: Results of collagenase inhibition in tubo assay, control: gallic acid, phyteq raspberry multifunctional in propanediol, analysis of collagen fluorescent digested fragment
DQ™ gelatin was added to start the reaction. The fluorescence of the digested product of the DQ™ gelatin was measured immediately after adding substrate and then continuously for 30 minutes at 495 nm absorbance (collagenase) and 485 nm absorbance (elastase) using a microplate spectrophotometer (Bio Tek Synergy 2). 2 The raspberry multifunctional ingredient
demonstrated an inhibition rate of 70 % for collagenase and 50% for elastase. Gallic acid at 0.5% was used as a positive control for inhibition effect and achieved an inhibition rate of 95% and 90% (Figure 6). Negative controls were performed, replacing active ingredients complex by reaction buffer.
Anti-inflammation Inflammation is the body’s immune system’s response to an irritant of any nature. Cause may be a germ, but it could also be a foreign object, such as a splinter. Hence, an inflammation doesn’t only start
PLACEBO
180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Placebo
+66% ***
-10% *
-19% **
phyteq raspberry 0.5%
LPS
phyteq raspberry 0.5% + LPS
Figure 7: Results of IL1-R1 expression test. Bilateral statistical analysis, (mean +/- sem ; n=6). *: significant, **: very significant, ***: highly significant with Student’s t-test versus Placebo in grey or versus LPS in green
when, for instance, a wound has already been infected by bacteria or is healing poorly. It already starts when the body is trying to fight against the harmful irritant.7,8 To understand anti-inflammation
capabilities a decrease of IL-1R1 expression is evaluated. IL-1R1 is an interleukin receptor involved in cytokine induced inflammatory responses.5,6
Tests were performed with and
without LPS stress applied on human skin biopsies for 24 hours, once a day. For each condition, three skin biopsies were used. Without applied LPS stress a very significant
decrease in immunofluorescent staining was observed (-19%), which promotes a soothing claim on sensitive skin. A significant decrease (-10%) under applied LPS stress substantiates anti-inflammation properties on irritated skin (Figure 7). Five to six photos per biopsies were taken
after the immunodetection of the marker with a Volocity® Acquisition 3D image capture software
PHYTEQRASBERRY
(Figure 8). Finally, 6 photos (regrouping the three biopsies) were used for the statistics.
Conclusion Phyteq raspberry multifunctional is an innovative and unique product because end-consumers increasingly evaluate labels that include products inspired by nature. Being biodegradable and globally compliant, this ingredient builds on the already well-known health benefits of raspberries. It is an excellent choice for care products because it is a true multifunctional providing unparalleled skin benefits. A single addition of the raspberry
multifunctional ingredient is enough to target various claims interesting for today’s consumers. Ideal for use in the following applications: skin and body care, w/o and o/w emulsions, tonics and shampoos or body wash, sun care formulations (both w/o and o/w) with organic and/or inorganic UV filters, hair styling products, treatments, and conditioners.
References 1. Kedare SB, Singh RP. Genesis and development of DPPH method of antioxidant assay. 2011.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pmc/articles/PMC3551182/
2. Zhong Y, Shahidi F. Methods for the assessment of antioxidant activity in foods in Handbook of Antioxidants for Food Preservation. 2015
3. Desai SN, Ray SD. Lipid Peroxidation in Encyclopedia of Toxicology (Third Edition). 2014
4. EnzChek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay Kit, 250-2,000 assays
https://www.thermofisher. com/order/catalog/product/E12055
LPS LPS + PHYTEQRASBERRY
5. Cytokine analysis - intracellular cytokine staining by flow cytometry. https://www.
sanquin.org/products-and-services/ immunomonitoring-services/clinical- immunomonitoring/assays/cytokine- analyses--intracellular-cytokine-staining#
6. IL1R1 interleukin 1 receptor type 1 [ Homo sapiens (human)]. National Library of Medicine.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/gene/3554
7. What is an inflammation? National Library of Medicine.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ books/NBK279298/
less green = less inflammation
Figure 8: Results of IL1-R1 immunofluorescent staining and image quantification captured with green staining (Volocity Acquisition 3D image capture software)
PERSONAL CARE March 2023
8. Tucureanu MM et al. Lipopolysaccharide- induced inflammation in monocytes/ macrophages is blocked by liposomal delivery of Gi-protein inhibitor. International Journal of Nanomedicine. Vol. 2017, p. 63-76
www.personalcaremagazine.com
PC
% enzyme inhibition
% intensity/epidermis area
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