NEWS
13 Lucas Meyer makes skin barrier first
New research on its IBR-Dragon active has led IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics to claim the first demonstration of a botanical prebiotic active ingredient that modulates all three levels of the skin barrier. IBR-Dragon is a highly
concentrated dragon fruit extract, and contains, beyond prebiotic fibers and oligosaccharides, phytochemicals required for optimal skin homeostasis and minerals like magnesium and phosphorus known for their role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier. In a competitive coculture in vitro assay, the Canadian
Givaudan takes wraps off RetiLife
Givaudan has launched RetiLife, said to be the first active ingredient of its kind to offer a sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy. RetiLife is made from 100% naturally sourced
retinol, and as such is said to be a sustainable solution to chemically synthesised retinol. Through the use of micro-organisms, pure
retinol is produced in a natural carrier during a fermentation process from plant sugars and combined with natural antioxidants to ensure its protection, even at a very high concentration. With 100% natural-origin content, including
sunflower oil as a carrier, the composition of RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate. Its molecule is identical to its chemical counterpart. “Throughout the years, Active Beauty has
broken cosmetic boundaries by launching active ingredients that outperform competitors,” said Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty.
“With the launch of RetiLife, a unique
hero cosmetic biotech innovation, we focus on creating consumer-preferred products that leverage our capabilities in line with our purpose.”
company found IBR-Dragon selectively supported the growth of beneficial commensal strains like S. epidermidis, while limiting the growth of detrimental strains S. aureus and P. acnes. Corresponding with this
prebiotic activity, in a clinical setting, topical application of IBR-Dragon increased skin microbiome phylogenetic diversity and decreased the abundance of opportunistic pathogens like C. tuberculostearicum (strengthening the microbial barrier). IBR-Dragon decreased TEWL (reinforcing the physical barrier). Lastly, IBR-Dragon reduced
skin inflammation and irritation, and strengthened skin resilience to histamine challenge (strengthening the immune barrier). “To the best of our knowledge, this is the first demonstration of a botanical prebiotic active ingredient that modulates all three levels of the skin barrier,” said an IFF Lucas Meyer spokeswoman. “Correlated with its effective
prebiotic activity, we also found that IBR-Dragon increases skin radiance and decreases the appearance of wrinkles and visible spots for healthy, glowing, youthful skin,” she added. Locally grown in Israel, the
dragon fruits used for IBR-Dragon are obtained by hand pollination and hand harvested. IBR-Dragon is then sustainably
produced by using a natural and environmentally friendly process to preserve a unique botanical composition.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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