IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL PREVIEW Henry Lamotte Oils (AE91) will give a


Sustainability Corner talk about how its natural oils can contribute to the various sustainability goals and make a contribution to sustainable product solutions. Topics include what makes a product sustainable? Where do the ingredients come from and what components make it ‘natural’? And how can cosmetics manufacturers integrate the topic of sustainability transparently and credibly into their product range?


advanced biotechnology to create novel, nature- inspired biopolymers that drive performance enhancement in beauty and personal care. Polysaccharides developed by DEB can also


be made biodegradable to meet the increased regulatory and consumer pressures to replace some traditional polymers. Aurist AGC is the first ingredient enabled by the new DEB platform: a biobased, biodegradable hair conditioning polymer with superior performance attributes in smoothing, softening, detangling and conditioning. Aurist AGC is part of the new Aurist functional


line, a family of sustainable biopolymers based on responsibly-sourced, natural sugars, enabled by IFF’s biotechnology capabilities, and designed to elevate sensorial experiences in personal care.


IMCD (AB50) will aim to inspire cosmetic


brands with a ‘textures wall’ and guide them in their personalisation options to speed up their formulation development time. During twice-daily live demo sessions, IMCD will show visitors how to design hair care as well as face care formulation prototypes from the same starting chassis.


IBERCHEM Iberchem (K20) will present a live, interactive


on-stand experience for visitors to discover Wavemotion. A collaboration with neuroscientific experts, it is said to bring a new dimension to perfumery as Iberchem scientifically evaluates the impact of fragrance on human psychology and physiology. Investigating interconnected structures in the


brain and how these responses can transform the emotional landscape will unlock unprecedented possibilities for empowering fragrances that evoke positive feelings and boost emotional wellbeing, it says. Olfaction has a pivotal role in determining this emotional state with aromas frequently activating intense emotions and feelings before we even recognise the scent.


Ichimaru Pharcos (D50) will introduce two


new ingredients that are both COSMOS-approved and registered in China IECIC 2021. HyaluGuard is an Artemisia capillaris (wormwood) flower extract that guards hyaluronic acid. This is the first skin care ingredient developed to inhibit HYBID (hyaluronan binding protein involved in hyaluronan sepolymerization), which is responsible for hyaluronic acid degradation in the dermis. It is clinically proven to reduce skin sagging and wrinkles. The other ingredient, Milltect, is a natural oral


care ingredient against oral biofilm formation. Oral biofilms cause not only caries, periodontitis but also tooth discoloration and bad breath. The ingredient coats pellicles on the tooth surface and blocks the oral bacterial adhesion and is confirmed to have a strong synergistic effect when used in combination with existing antibacterial agents. It also inhibits the generation of malodour and staining depend on oral bacteria.


IFF – Health & Biosciences (U30) is introducing


a new-to-the-world technology – Designed Enzymatic Biopolymer (DEB) – developed to break the trade-off between performance and sustainability in functional ingredients. DEB uses


www.personalcaremagazine.com Innovacos (S31) will unveil a new active


ingredient, Plant C-Stem Bamboo, based on a stem cell culture from Phyllostachys pubescens sprouts to strengthen the hair and reduce its fall. Through specific technological know-how, Innovacos selectively extracts the content of the vacuole of Phyllostachys pubescens stem cells. Plants use the vacuole as a warehouse to store


bioactive components required for growth and repair. Using the plant cell vacuole extract is like using the plant ‘serum’. Innovacos has harnessed the power of this plant “serum” to develop an ingredient with an essential role in the production of collagen, reduction of hair loss, and prevention of cellular ageing. In addition, bamboo is rich in silicon, an essential component for hair health and beauty.


Jland Biotech (L90) will introduce its newest


product: the Friz-well Eye-patch combining its patented fermentation technology and expertise in freeze-drying techniques. Blending its vegan- certified type III human recombinant collagen, Biollagen, along with other specially selected ingredients; hyaluronic acid, mannitol, and acetyl tetrapeptide-5. The Friz-well Eye-patch is fast- acting, giving instant tightening of the undereye skin along with long term anti-ageing effects.


J. Rettenmaier & Söhne (T80) will focus on


natural and biodegradable rheology modifiers and functional fillers and disintegrants for water-free cosmetic solutions. In response to the waterless trend, JRS says it will be one of the first raw material suppliers at in-cosmetics Global to have a tablet press on its stand that produces tablets for the personal care sector. It shows application and use of the raw materials up close to the visitors. This year’s Innovation Box features Vitacel CS 300 DI (INCI: Cellulose, ISO 16128-2: 100% natural origin) – a powerful disintegrant that facilitates tablet disintegration. It is Ecocert/COSMOS & Natrue approved, as well as halal and kosher certified.


Kalichem (AC50) is launching Olivoil surfactants in powdery and concentrated form Kelisema Kelisema (AA01) will present unique vegetal


complexes and natural protein extracts obtained by green extraction technology from high quality renewable sources. Specifically developed to respect the natural skin balance and for hair protection and restructuring, actives range offers a diversified choice to address the diverse needs of skin and hair care cosmetic applications and new trends.


These include: Upcycled-Active Keliolive


obtained from Italian olive oil industry agro- wastes, rich in phenolic compounds with antioxidant properties. Besides anti-ageing and anti-pollution potential applications, it reveals an interesting improvement of colour deposition on hair when formulated in semi-permanent hair colour products. Also on show are Vegetal-Flour extracts from chestnut, barley, millet, oat, amaranth, fenugreek, presenting a high content of water-soluble carbohydrates fractions with film-forming and skin conditioning properties. Meanwhile, Protein- Extracts are from a wide range of renewable sources specifically developed for hair care applications.


March 2023 PERSONAL CARE


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sourced from olives upcycled from the food industry. The Italian company says they have water saving features (-40% rinsing water required compared to benchmark competitors), and readily biodegradable while not persistent in water, sediment and soil. The company will also introduce formulations


suitable for waterless and solid cosmetics to be included in sustainable packaging, compliant to plastic-free and zero-waste trends. Also on show are refillable cosmetics (either to coat with biodegradable film or to include in single dose packaging to dilute in water), based on concentrated cleansing formulations and solid cosmetics.


KCI (H80) will present a new ingredient,


Kleensolve DMI, which is derived from plant (corn) origin, is colourless/odourless and is an eco-friendly, functional material. It boosts the performance of active ingredients within formulations for various personal care applications. Kleensolve DMI is said to boost tanning


performance and reduces the consumption of DHA (dihydroxy acetone) in self-tanning formulations. It also helps to stabilise BPO (benzoyl peroxide) for in anti-acne formulations, increases the skin retention time and reduces skin irritation.


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