BIOTECHNOLOGIES
Biotechnologies opening new beauty possibilities
Erwan Le Gelebart, Maud Merlini – Seppic
The ‘all-natural’ trend continues to gain a lot of traction in the global cosmetics market. Ever more consumers demand quality with naturality but also sustainable cosmetic products. In future, these high expectations could
merge with new expectations of efficiency, opening the way to biotechnological, sustainable and ultra-efficient solutions that meet the expectations of consumers looking for more advanced solutions. One of the key pillars of sustainability is
the environmental aspect with respect and protection of the planet and with the critical goal of biodiversity preservation. In fact, the impact on biodiversity is the third most common information expected by consumers to be displayed on packaging.1 This for good reasons. Biodiversity is a key
indicator of the health of an ecosystem and it is declining fast, mainly due to human activity. Biodiversity is not only an ecological and
social responsibility topic but also a business necessity. For ingredient suppliers, biodiversity should
be taken into account in the ingredient design process, especially when it comes to sourcing for the manufacture of natural ingredients.
Limiting the impact on biodiversity Biotechnologies can offer new perspectives for the development of cosmetic active
ingredients that are more respectful of the environment. For example, Seppic’s biotechnologies of plant cell culture and small and rare macroalgae culture, respectively called Celtosome™ and Celebrity™, make it possible to limit the impact on biodiversity. On one hand, Celtosome technology
allows the cultivation of dedifferentiated cells of plants . It consists in cultivating non- specialised cells which have the potential of the whole plant. This technology has seven steps (Figure 1), requiring only one small piece of plant.
Celtosome development process ■ The first step requires a few seeds or leaves
Figure 1: Schema of Celtosome development process
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of the plant. Seeds or leaves are sterilised in order to remove microorganisms such as bacteria or fungi. Seeds are then placed in good condition to allow germination. ■ Small plantlets resulting from germination or sterilised leaves are cut in pieces with a scalpel and placed on a new culture medium called callogenesis medium. Where the wounds were created during the cuts, dedifferentiated cells develop. These clusters of new cells are a callus. ■ Callus is suspended in a liquid medium. This step aims at the obtention of fine suspension of plant cells. ■ Cell suspensions are scaled-up in order to meet the cosmetic ingredient market needs. This stage requires bioreactors conducted under axenic conditions from hundreds millilitres to industrial volumes in litres. The main bottlenecks of this step are the management of shear stress, oxygen transfer, viscosity and harvest.
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
63
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