76 BIOTECHNOLOGIES


In vivo efficacy In an open label in vivo study, one group of 14 women (average age 58, Fitzpatrick skin type III) applied a simple serum containing 0.1% H21 twice per day (AM and PM) for 8 weeks (including 1 week wash out period). Changes in skin condition were assessed by analysis of results from expert clinical grading and instrumental assessment at days 0, week 2, week 4 and week 8 (Figure 4). The biomechanical skin properties of firmness and elasticity were measured with a cutometer, while measurements of dermal collagen content were obtained using a SIAscope. Spectrophotometric intracutaneous analysis


(SIAscopy) is a non-invasive method of skin imaging that allows in vivo quantification of dermal collagen, as well as melanin and hemoglobin. This technique was originally developed for diagnosing melanomas, but it is commonly applied for cosmetic evaluation. The SIAscope scanner measures remitted light from the skin ranging from 400 to 1000 nm. These values are analysed based on a mathematical optical model of human skin to provide information about skin constituents.16 Statistically significant improvements from baseline were observed in mean scores for skin collagen content at week 2 and week 8. Elasticity measurements with the cutometer


have been recognised as standard in the cosmetic industry. The principle is based on a mechanical deformation of the skin via suction. The resistance of the skin to the negative pressure (firmness) and its ability to return to its original position (elasticity) are displayed as real time measurement curves (penetration depth in mm/time). Statistically significant improvements from baseline mean scores were observed for elasticity (R5 Ur/Ue) at week 2 and week 4. Statistically significant changes from


baseline were observed in mean results for the appearance of facial skin brightness, texture/softness (tactile), texture/smoothness (visual) after two, four and eight weeks of test product application and for the appearance of erythema (redness), lines/wrinkles (global), firmness (visual) and elasticity (tactile) after four and eight weeks. Of note, 100% of subjects experienced improvement from their baseline score for the appearance of skin firmness (visual), brightness, texture/softness (tactile) and texture/ smoothness (visual) at the week four and week eight visits.


Conclusion Biodesign is a conscious and intentional engagement with biology, a medium to direct and accelerate the potential for performance and utility in ways that provide value to the beauty and wellness industry. The use of biodesign makes it possible to produce vegan human collagen that is 100% animal free, halal, safe, highly soluble in water, colourless, odourless, and non-GMO, as well as certified readily biodegradable and USDA BioPreferred certifiable. Geltor’s biomanufacturing process using


precision fermentation is environmentally friendly with zero animal inputs, using less water and land, and releasing substantially less CO2


PERSONAL CARE March 2023 into the atmosphere. Biodesign allows the personal care industry to address the key Skin Elasticity Increase


100% of subjects showed improvement +123%


0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0 Baseline 2 weeks 4 weeks Cutometer measurements Skin Wrinkle Reduction 93% of subjects showed improvement 5.5 5.0 -10% 4.5 4.0 Baseline 4 weeks 8 weeks


Scored by blined clinical graders


-12% +33%


270 260 250 240 230 220 210


Skin Collagen Increase 93% of subjects showed improvement +9% +7% Baseline


Baseline 2 weeks


8 weeks SIAscope measurements Skin Redness Reduction 78% of subjects showed improvement


2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0


Week 8


-48% -58%


Baseline 4 weeks


8 weeks


Scored by blined clinical graders


consumer needs for sustainability, safety, and ethics, without compromising on performance and efficacy.


Figure 4: Clinical measurements of H21 topical treatment over eight weeks 9264.2020.153


PC


References 1 Waltz E. Cosmetics: when biotech is better than nature. Nat. Biotechnol. 2022;40:626–8. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41587-022-01318-x


2. Theocharidis G, Connelly JT. Minor collagens of the skin with not so minor functions. J. Anat. 2019;235:418–29. https://doi.org/10.1111/ joa.12584


3. Pointing C. Collagen Is a Beauty Miracle. But It Doesn’t Need to Come From Animals. LIVEKINDLY 2021. https://www.livekindly.com/ fermentation-secret-plant-based-collagen/


4. Varani J, Dame MK, Rittie L, Fligiel SEG, Kang S, Fisher GJ et al. Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin: roles of age-dependent alteration in fibroblast function and defective mechanical stimulation. Am. J. Pathol. 2006;168:1861–8. https://doi.org/10.2353/ajpath.2006.051302


5. Griffiths CE, Russman AN, Majmudar G, Singer RS, Hamilton TA, Voorhees JJ. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N. Engl. J. Med. 1993;329:530–5. https://doi. org/10.1056/NEJM199308193290803


6. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, Phan SH, Kang S, Chung JH et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2000;114:480–6. https:// doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00902.x


7. Reilly DM, Lozano J. Skin collagen through the lifestages: importance for skin health and beauty. Plastic and Aesthetic Research. 2021;8:2. https://doi.org/10.20517/2347-


8. Li M, Li X, Liu B, Lv L, Wang W, Gao D et al. Time-Resolved Extracellular Matrix Atlas of the Developing Human Skin Dermis. Frontiers in Cell and Developmental Biology. 2021;9


9. Olsen BR. Matrix molecules and their ligands. In Principles of Tissue Engineering. Fourth Edition. 2014


10. EpiDermFT in vitro 3D Tissue. MatTek Life Sciences 2015. https://www.mattek.com/ products/epidermft/


11. Chen WY, Abatangelo G. Functions of hyaluronan in wound repair. Wound Repair Regen. 1999;7:79–89. https://doi.org/10.1046/ j.1524-475x.1999.00079.x


12. Greco RM, Iocono JA, Ehrlich HP. Hyaluronic acid stimulates human fibroblast proliferation within a collagen matrix. J. Cell Physiol. 1998;177:465–73. https://doi.org/10.1002/ (SICI)1097-4652(199812)177:3<465::AID- JCP9>3.0.CO;2-5


13. Fraser JR, Laurent TC, Laurent UB. Hyaluronan: its nature, distribution, functions and turnover. J. Intern. Med. 1997;242:27– 33. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365- 2796.1997.00170.x


14. Averbeck M, Gebhardt CA, Voigt S, Beilharz S, Anderegg U, Termeer CC et al. Differential regulation of hyaluronan metabolism in the epidermal and dermal compartments of human skin by UVB irradiation. J. Invest. Dermatol. 2007;127:687–97. https://doi. org/10.1038/sj.jid.5700614


15. Anderegg U, Simon JC, Averbeck M. More than just a filler - the role of hyaluronan for skin homeostasis. Exp. Dermatol. 2014;23:295– 303. https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.12370


16. Matts PJ. New insights into skin appearance and measurement. J. Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc. 2008;13:6–9. https://doi. org/10.1038/jidsymp.2008.6


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Wrinkle (clinical score)


Elasticity (R5 Ur/Ue)


Erythema (clinical score)


Skin Collagen (A.U.)


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103