ANTI-AGEING
by all skin cell types within the epidermis and dermis, including fibroblasts, keratinocytes, melanocytes etc. They play several roles as signaling
molecules for a wide spectrum of physiological processes such as homeostasis, growth, defense or immunity. They are also notable for regulating cellular growth, proliferation, differentiation and promoting the formation of ECM proteins such as collagen and elastin to support the repair of damaged skin and wound healing. Consequently, biomimetic peptides which
were inspired by the amino acid sequence of growth factors with GF-like properties, have emerged as a expanding field for investigation in recent years, especially to provide inspiration for anti-ageing active ingredients for dermocosmetic applications.
Photoageing and IGF-1: photoageing and oxidation Chronic sun exposure causes various forms of skin damage.10
Chronic exposure to solar
ultraviolet irradiation can result in visible features of facial photoageing such as fine lines and wrinkles, poor texture and sagging skin. The visible damage from chronic sun exposure has contributed to facial photoageing becoming one of the most prevalent aesthetic concerns. UV radiation is the primary cause of
photoageing, which is accentuated by other environmental factors, including air pollution, visible/infrared light.10
Although photoageing
(i.e. extrinsic) is a process distinct from chronologic (i.e. intrinsic) skin ageing, both features are often present in a superimposed fashion.
With UV radiation, numerous events occur
leading to photoageing: ■ Reduced proliferation potential of epidermal and dermal cells11 ■ Oxidative stress, resulting from over production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) along with reduced activity of antioxidant enzymes12,13 ■ Cytotoxic and apoptotic UV-induced cellular and DNA damage in skin cells13 ■ UV-induced downregulation of genes encoding ECM proteins in fibroblasts, including collagen and elastin,13 SIRT-1 coding for cell nucleus longevity enzyme Sirtuin-1 in keratinocytes,14
and of AQP-3 coding for
aquaporin-3 water channels15 A
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
(*) 100%
(**) 73%
52%
(**) 89%
Statistics: Mean values n=3 Student t test (*) p<0.05 (**)p<0.025
(**) 101%
Control UVB 0.01 0.1 1
UVB + Decapeptide-4 (ppm)
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
680% (**) 360% (**) 100% Control UVB UVB+
Decapeptide-4 (1 ppm)
A
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
(*) 119% 100% (**) 129% (**) 135% +35% B
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control 0.01 0.1 1 UVB + Decapeptide-4 (ppm)
(**) 118%
100% 105% Statistics: Mean values n=3 Student t test (*) p<0.05 (**)p<0.025
(**) 121%
+21%
91
Control
0.01
0.1
1 UVB + Decapeptide-4 (ppm)
Figure 2: Stimulation of proliferation from Decapeptide-4 on (A) keratinocytes and (B) fibroblasts. Cell proliferation was quantified through SRB colorimetric assay
A
200 §60 120 80 40 0
100 101 Control ■ UVB (15mJ/cm2) ■
UVB+Decapeptide-4 1 ppm ■ 0.01 ppm ■
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
102 103 104 B 530% 440% (**) 233% (**) 100% Control UVB 0.01 1
UVB + Decapeptide-4 (ppm)
Figure 3: Protective effect of Decapeptide-4 on UVB-induced intracellular ROS in keratinocytes. The ROS were quantified by DCFH-DA staining. (A) Flow cytometry diagram. (B) Quantification
Insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) Insulin growth factor-1 is a growth factor associated with the function of mediating signs of skin ageing and cell longevity in human skin. In human skin, epidermal keratinocytes do
not express IGF-1, hence the IGF-1 receptor (IGF-1R) on keratinocytes and fibroblasts are activated by IGF-1 secreted from dermal fibroblasts.16
Functions including promotion of
cell proliferation for the survival of fibroblasts and keratinocytes by activation of the IGF-1R receptor, protection from DNA damage and apoptosis through UV irradiation and oxidative stress, and induction of type 1 collagen gene expression and synthesis of certain ECM components such as cellular laminin, fibronectin, and type IV collagen in mesangial cells are a few notable functions of IGF-1 in the skin.17 However, with ageing, IGF-1 synthesis
decreases at both tissue (including skin) and B
Statistics: Mean values +SD n=3 Student t test (**) p<0.025 (**) p<0.025
450 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
350% (**) (**) 100% Control UVB UVB+
Decapeptide-4 (1 ppm)
Figure 4: Protective effect on keratinocytes from Decapeptide-4 upon UVB-induction on (A) cytotoxicity and (B) apoptosis. Cell viability was quantified by SRB colorimetric assay, while cell apoptosis was quantified through Annexin V staining and flow cytometry
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 5: Demonstrates protective effect on fibroblasts upon use of Decapeptide-4 on UVA- induced apoptosis. Cell apoptosis was quantified by Annexin V staining and flow cytometry
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE 170% systemic levels.18,19 Consequently, repairing of
UVB-induced DNA damage in keratinocytes becomes less efficient with declining levels of IGF-1.16,20 Patients with observed deficiency in IGF-1
showed signs of early skin ageing, including dry, thin, and wrinkled skin.21 It was also found that lower levels of IGF-1 were associated with chronological ageing and photoageing.22,23 Overall, the human growth factor IGF-1 may
be considered as an important component for the prevention of facial ageing, particularly against oxidative and photoageing signs, including but not limited to skin wrinkles and sagging.
Protecting the skin from photoageing and oxidation BASF’s Peptovitae Matrix is a biomimetic peptide inspired from human IGF-1. It is a solution of Decapeptide-4 in a double-layered
Statistics: Mean values +SD n=3 Student t test (**) p<0.025 (**) p<0.025 Statistics: Mean values n=3 + SD Student t test (*) p<0.05 (**)p<0.025
% of cell viability vs control
protection 100%
% of apoptotic cells vs control
% of ROS vs control
% of cell proliferation vs control
protection 55%
% of ROS vs control
% of apoptotic cells vs control
% of cell proliferation vs control
protection 72%
protection 69%
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