18 INTERVIEW
TP: Where’s the cutting edge with silicones right now? Where’s the innovation coming from? IA: For us, the way we are thinking about silicones is how we can do more with less. That is across all our technologies, not just with silicones.
The idea is to look at how can
a customer can reduce 10-15% of its loading in its formulations when launching a new product in the market. On the concept of doing more
with less, one product I would like to highlight is HydroxyShield™ Polymer, which is one of our best- performing silicone technologies because it allows reduced hair breakage and makes hair really easy to style afterwards, when it is either in a shampoo or in a conditioner. On the skin side, one of the
innovations we are very excited about is Dowsil™ 1686 Resin, a non-GMO silicone technology that offers super shine and radiance when added to colour cosmetics or conditioner for hair colour. We have seen this resin is good for creating a collection of foundations formulated with different pigments.
TP: What more can we expect from Dow in terms of products and solutions? What’s in the pipeline? IA: Our marketeers and technical sales leaders are very close to our customers and listen daily to their needs and constraints. It could be a brand that wants to have a new market position and their current ingredients do not allow them to reach it. Or it could be a brand
that wants to add a different fragrance; or they want to enter a new format and there is a gap, they cannot do it at scale. With our R&D team, we examine what is needed in terms of the new ingredients, what are the challenges and the transformation needed. All the new technologies that we need to invent. You can continue to expect this from Dow going forward. From a chemical perspective,
you can also continue to expect Dow to innovate on silicones. We have one of the broadest portfolios in the industry and silicones chemistry is at the core of what we do and who we are. But we can also continue
to expect us to innovate a lot in our cellulose rheology, new polysaccharides rheology and also on film formers and hair
PERSONAL CARE March 2023
“On hair care, Indonesia is a country awakening to conditioning. As consumers are so sophisticated on the skin side, I believe there is
an opportunity in Indonesia for that market to pick up” Isabel Almiro do Vale
fixatives. So, we will continue to innovate in the spaces where we are very strong today. Our ECOllaboration kit is a
good example of that, which shows new ideas to formulators wanting products with natural content of 90% or above. We always try to showcase with our kits a mix of expertise in products and formulations either in skin care - such as showing creams and lotions for cleansing – as well as for make-up side by trying to come up with new formulations and innovation in primers or colour retention. This year it’s going to be very
important to show make-up options with no rub-off claims.
TP: What other personal care trends are you seeing right now? What are the hot products and hot markets? IA: In North America, there is a really exciting energy around textured hair and different skin tones. It’s really about the individuality of the consumer. Brands really want to push that forward, so North America is a very exciting region because our portfolio has a lot to offer. In Latin America, one of the things I am excited about is our Dexcare™ CD-1 Polymer
innovation in hair care. Affordability might be lower than some other regions but that’s where highly performing and efficient ingredients really help local brands to bring benefits to consumers. For us, 2023 is going to be a very exciting hair care year in Latin America. In Europe, we continue to see
the trend for sustainable concepts. It’s where we’ve seen a high demand for our ECOllaboration Concepts Collection. In terms of technologies, I would say we are pushing high-performing silicones and some alternatives to silicone technologies because we know that it resonates well with the market. India is a fantastic market of
creativity, a mix between what we call basic hygiene products and some high sophistication. There is a lot of development around hair technologies, personal care, hygiene and there is also a big push on the elastomer side for colour cosmetics. We are seeing the development of Indian brands around more specific applications of lipstick formulations and foundations.
TP: How about the other parts of Asia? IA: We are very excited to see the
opening up of the Chinese market after the Covid lockdown. That is also a very big boost both for South Korea and Japan. Over the last three years, we have seen a lot of new ideas from brands in all three countries. For me, it’s going to be
interesting to see how the skin care market is going to develop the sensory aspect. Again, we see a very big push for silicone elastomers and film formers to create those really skin deep, high-performing experiences. As for Southeast Asia, I had
the chance to visit a few countries at the end of last year and I was really surprised by Indonesia. I saw a lot of new concepts and new brands targeting the local market. Due to humidity and skin quality issues, there is a need to develop comfortable sensoriality for skin care formulations. On hair care, Indonesia
is a country awakening to conditioning. I would say today it is a market where a shampoo needs to deliver three-in- one benefits; the market for conditioning or hair oil is not yet developed. But as consumers are so sophisticated on the skin side, I believe there is an opportunity in Indonesia for that market to pick up.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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