NATURALS
53
Raspberry multifunctional for sustainable benefits
Matthias Hentz – Ashland
Perhaps one of the most impactful recent changes in the personal care industry is the need for a sound strategy for the use of preservatives that considers regulations, consumer demand and cost-effectiveness for a more sustainable and eco-aware market. Ever more effective preservatives must
give way, creating a strong need for powerful alternatives. A challenge that holds opportunities. Contemporary strategies lean towards multifunctionals that are more costly but promise much more than preservatives. Molecules with multiple functions help formulators to achieve additional claims enabling lesser ingredients and pamper overall value for money. This article concentrates on an innovative
technology that enables formulators to implement a sound preservation strategy and to substantiate secondary claims based on consistent in-depth analysis.
Multifunctionals: the new normal More than two decades ago, the personal care consumer and industry perceived naturality as a minor trend originating from Europe. Today, naturality is a self-conception to most. Consumers perceive natural labels and sustainability claims to be almost equally important to the product performance. Consequently, many ingredients had to
be replaced, while others are still subject of concern. Synthetic polymers, silicones or parabens are but a few popular examples. Among many leading technologies, Ashland produces and markets a wide range of antimicrobials. When certain preservatives had to give way multifunctionals became an established strategy to protect cosmetic products from microbial spoilage, either in conjunction with preservatives or as a standalone. Due to their nature, preservatives usually
target microorganisms more effectively and at lower use concentrations. Multifunctionals can support the stability of cosmetic formulations or boost the efficacy of preservatives, however, that is not their only function. A common strategy, therefore, includes the
mixture of two or more substances to balance cost and performance and to provide additional formulation benefits. A well-established example is the combination of Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin or Caprylyl Glycol, combining antimicrobial performance with distinct skin benefits.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Due to an ever-growing cost pressure on
formulators, the tendency towards shorter INCI lists and fewer ingredients, the potential of multifunctionals to substantiate valuable claims will be in the spotlight. Ashland has successfully engaged AI-supported research and launched phyteqTM
, hereafter described as the raspberry
multifunctional ingredient, an innovative molecule that adds to product stability and provides outstanding skin benefits making this technology fit for future demands. The raspberry multifunctional ingredient is based on raspberry ketone, a compound occurring in different plants. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda for decades. As a globally approved and biodegradable multifunctional additive, it acts as preservative potentiator that protects cosmetic products against spoilage at concentrations as low as 0.5% in a wide pH range. Acting as strong antioxidant and free radical scavenger its additional skin benefits make it an excellent choice for care products. Hence, it is an ideal tool to get more with less and act sustainably.
Materials and methods The material used for the investigation of primary and secondary claims was raspberry ketone, commercially available as the raspberry multifunctional ingredient, supplied by Ashland Global Specialty Chemicals Inc. The antimicrobial efficacy has been evaluated using Ashland’s CosPETTM
(Cosmetic Preservation Efficacy Test)
protocol. Antioxidation was tested by DPPH assay
(α, α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl) and FRAP test (reaction with potassium ferricyanide).
Peroxidation protection was evaluated via an in tubo oxygen peroxide stress assay. Quantification of peroxidized linoleic acid was performed with a high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with a mass spectrometer (MS) detector. Collagenases are transmembrane zinc
endopeptidases that break the peptide bonds of collagen, the most abundant constituent of the extracellular matrix. Elastases are serine proteases that break elastin fibres that, together with collagen, determine the mechanical properties of the skin including elasticity, strength, tissue remodeling, and wound healing capacity.1 Enzymes inhibitions were investigated using
E12055, EnzChek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay Kit and the E12056 EnzChek Elastase Assay Kit made by Thermo Fisher Scientific following the manufacturer’s instructions with some modifications for use in microplate reader. Two independent in tubo assays were performed on collagenase and elastase to understand the enzyme inhibition potential. IL-1R1 interleukin receptor immunofluorescent staining in skin biopsies and image quantification using Volocity Acquisition were performed to demonstrate soothing and anti-inflammation properties of the multifunctional.
Antimicrobial activity The antimicrobial activity has been proven by the CosPET test protocol. This method is used to determine the efficacy of antimicrobials in cosmetic formulations, such as creams, lotions or shampoos. During CosPET, two samples of a test product
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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