92 ANTI-AGEING UVB irradiation (6J/cm2 Control proCollagen type 1 Elastin Aquaporin3 Fibronectin GAPDH
Figure 6: RT-PCR and agarose gel electrophoresis on fibroblasts after UVA irradiation
liposome-based encapsulation system (Figure 1) to facilitate its delivery to the skin. Peptovitae Matrix demonstrated in vitro protective effects on pathways involved in reduced cell proliferation potential, oxidative stress, UV-induced cellular damage, and UV-induced down-regulation of ageing-related genes. In parallel, studies In vivo for the anti-photoageing properties using Peptovitae Matrix at 2% on facial skin sagging and crow’s feet wrinkles compared to the placebo serum (vehicle) was also conducted.
In vitro study: promotion of cell proliferation IGF-1 promotes the proliferation and survival of cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) by activation of the IGF1R receptor.11,24,25
As photoageing
occurs, of which UV radiation is a primary cause, the proliferation potential of epidermal and dermal cells was found to be reduced.11 We studied in vitro the stimulatory effect
of Decapeptide-4 in Peptovitae Matrix on the proliferation potential of epidermal and dermal cells. Decapeptide-4 showed a dose-dependent, significant stimulation of proliferation in both keratinocytes (Figure 2A) and fibroblasts (Figure 2B) with up to 35% and 21% increase in proliferation at 1ppm (p<0.025) respectively. Thus, Decapeptide-4 in Peptovitae Matrix can contribute to provide benefits of anti- photoageing.
Protection against oxidative stress IGF-1 was found to have a protective role
against oxidative stress induced by UVB- radiation.16 Further studies have also shown that IGF-1 receptor knockdown in keratinocytes had greater sensitivity to oxidative stress.25 As such, the effect of Decapeptide-4
was tested in vitro against oxidative stress, by measuring intracellular levels of ROS accumulation induced by UVB radiation (Figure 3). From the findings, Decapeptide-4 in Peptovitae Matrix showed a significant reduction in the level of intracellular ROS induced by UVB in keratinocytes, quantified to a 69% protective effect at 1 ppm (p<0.025).
Protection against UV-induced cellular toxicity On keratinocytes, UVB radiation induced a
cytotoxic effect (Figure 4A) and apoptosis (Figure 4B). Decapeptide-4 showed a dose dependent significant protection against the UVB-induced cytotoxicity on keratinocytes, with a 100% protection at the dose of 1 ppm (p<0.025) (Figure 4A). On the other hand, using Annexin V as the biomarker, Decapeptide-4 at 1ppm significantly reduced UVB-induced apoptosis on keratinocytes, quantified to 55% protection (p<0.025) (Figure 4B). On fibroblasts, UVA irradiation induced cell
apoptosis (Figure 5). However, Decapeptide-4 at 1ppm significantly reduced UVA-induced apoptosis on fibroblasts, resulting to a quantified 72% protection (p<0.025). Overall, Decapeptide-4 in Peptovitae Matrix served protective functions in vitro on keratinocytes and fibroblasts against the cytotoxic and apoptotic effects induced by UV radiation.
Protection against UV-induced downregulation of ECM, cell longevity and water channel proteins Decapeptide-4 in Peptovitae Matrix was also able to protect in vitro and at the gene level the UVA-induced downregulation of ECM proteins, procollagen type I, elastin, and fibronectin in fibroblasts and UVB-induced downregulation of Sirtuin-1 (cell longevity regulator) and cell water channel aquaporin-3 in keratinocytes. Through conducting RT-PCR and agarose gel
Figure 9: Measurement principle of facial lifting is through the angle created by the contour lines formed on the face using the moiré phenomenon (derived from F-ray & image analysis)
PERSONAL CARE March 2023
electrophoresis on fibroblasts, UVA irradiation was found to induce down-regulation of ECM
www.personalcaremagazine.com GAPDH
Figure 7: RT-PCR and agarose gel electrophoresis on keratinocytes after UVB irradiation
0% -1% -2% -3% -4% -5% -6%
D14
Placebo ■ Peptovitae Matrix at 2% ■ D28
D56 0.01 )
Decapeptide-4 (ppm) 0.1
1 SIRT1 Control
UVB irradiation (15 mJ/cm2 Decapeptide-4 (ppm) 0.1
) 0.01 1
-2% (***)/D0 -3% (***)/D0 -3% (***)/D0 -4% (***)/D0 -3%
(***)/D0 x 1.7
-5% (***)/D0 (*)/PI Figure 8: Measurement of facial lifting with Peptovitae Matrix 2% versus placebo serum
Statistics: Percentage on 20 volunteers Student t test or Wilcoxon test
(*) p<0.05 (***) p<0.001
% vs D0
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