64 BIOTECHNOLOGIES
■ Biomasses of dedifferentiated plant cells and supernatants of culture are analysed by various techniques of chromatography in order to characterize its composition. ■ The valorisation of the culture is designed according to molecule families shown during the phytochemical analysis. Then solvents and extraction techniques are chosen in order to maximize the yield. ■ Extracts are tested to evaluated their biological activity In this way, Celtosome biotechnology
eliminates the need for a cultivation surface and the harvesting of plants since it is based on a laboratory culture of dedifferentiated cells, from only seeds or a piece of plant leaf. Seppic is specifically working on
dedifferentiated cells of halophyte plants - meaning plants adapted to salty environments - protected or whose collection is regulated. Once transformed into active ingredients, they deliver innovative performance in cosmetic formulas.
Macroalgae ingredients On the other hand, Celebrity biotechnology makes it possible to obtain active ingredients from a wide variety of macroalgae which are rare in nature and little-known. The lack of knowledge regarding algae is a major potential for innovation to develop new cosmetic active ingredients.2,3 There are four biodiversity hotspots for
macroalgae in the world. They are found in Chile, southern Australia, northern Japan and Europe,4
between Brest and Saint-Malo. Seppic‘s production site in Pontrieux in
Brittany, France is at the heart of a biodiversity hotspot for algae. In this area there are about 1,000 different species of macroalgae. However, we have noticed that only 50 different ones are used in the industry. There is therefore a very large part of
biodiversity that is not valued. The majority of macroalgae are relatively small, sometimes isolated and not very abundant in nature, making their industrial exploitation impossible. These small macroalgae are rare, the only way to obtain them in sufficient quantity to meet the needs of the market for cosmetic active ingredients is in vitro cultivation culture. This is how Seppic developed in 2015 the
Celebrity technology, for culturing algae from the chlorophyta (green algae), rhodophyta (red algae) and phaeophyceae (brown algae) in the laboratory and scaling up to an industrial biomass to obtain cosmetic active ingredients (Figure 2). ■ The aquatic environment is so rich in this part of the world that a single drop of seawater, a few milligrams of algae or a small shell allows us to start the isolation process. This stage consists in removing small animals like annelids or crustaceans, microalgae like diatoms or cyanobacteria in order to isolate a single strain of algae.
The isolation technique requires a
microscope, a binocular, micropipette, scalpel and multiwell plates. The application of successive dilutions and multiple iterations of
PERSONAL CARE March 2023 specifically in a small area of Europe Figure 2: Schema of Celebrity development process
the process allows the obtention of a unialgal strain of rare macroalgae. ■ The scale-up of the culture of rare macroalgae, is the adaptation of culture conditions to allow a good growth from lab scale to photobioreactors. The main bottlenecks at this stage are gas and light transfer, shear stress management and harvesting of the biomass. ■ Harvested biomass of rare macroalgae is lyophilised in order to preserve its phytochemical content. ■ Biomass is analysed by various techniques of chromatography in order to characterize its composition. Phytochemical compounds of interest are spotted. ■ Extraction of biomass is designed according to molecule families shown during the phytochemical analysis. Then solvents and extraction techniques are chosen in order to maximize the yield. ■ Extracts are tested to evaluated their biological activity Finally, using the Celebrity biotechnology
led to isolate macroalgae species and create a macroalgae bank of interesting species for the cosmetic industry. During the stage of the algae identification, new species have been discovered in partnership with the French National Museum of Natural History, collating in this way academic knowledge.
Opening new possibilities for beauty At the same time, biotechnologies open new possibilities for beauty. Indeed, Seppic has demonstrated advantages in terms of phytochemistry and efficacy on different products derived from these biotechnologies, Celtosome Crithmum maritimum (INCI: Crithmum maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate), Hydrachrysum™ (INCI: Aqua/Water - Glycerin - Helichrysum stoechas Callus Culture
Lysate) and Ephemer™ (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Undaria pinnatifida Extract) compared to their respective classic extracts. In fact, the active ingredients obtained
with Celtosome plant biotechnology contain the entire cellular structure and all the primary and secondary metabolites synthesized during their lifecycle, which cannot be reached by any extraction process. Seppic has demonstrated that its
Celtosome active ingredient has a very specific phytochemistry in the field of high polarity lipids, compared to a classic extract of the whole samphire plant, with interesting biological properties for cosmetic applications. Another example with an alternative
phytochemistry is Hydrachrysum. It presents a unique molecular richness, as the cells underwent a lyse during the process, keeping both phytochemical compositions of the cells and the culture medium. Then, it offers a phytochemistry richer in polar and apolar molecules than the plant, with sugars, phenolic compounds and lipids, permitting a global approach to tackle dry skin condition. Also, using Celebrity biotechnology, Seppic
has isolated and cultivated gametophytes from Undaria pinnatifida. The gametophytes, an ephemeral form of a few weeks of the algae in its life cycle, are described in the bibliography as richer in the antioxidant fucoxanthin than the sporophyte, the dominant form of the algae. From these gametophytes, Seppic obtained
the active extract Ephemer and compared it to a classic extract of Undaria pinnatifida revealing: on one hand a content of fucoxanthin 150 times higher and more stable in its extract from the biotechnology; on the other hand, superior efficiency in strengthening the antioxidant capacity of the skin, a more innovative and systemic approach than a simple antioxidant (Figure 3).
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