88 NATURALS
Fragrance enhancement When creating fragrances, diluents play an integral role in the formulation of a fragrance, acting as a solvent that holds the ingredients in a solution. A diluent makes up around 20-40% of a fragrance and can have an impact on the fragrance experience, at times intensifying or decreasing fragrance notes. A recent study performed by Genomatica
and MOCA Fragrances quantified the solubility and organoleptic performance of Brontide. This research compared the industry-standard diluent dipropylene glycol and two other natural diluents, benzyl benzoate and isopropyl myristate with over 100 natural and synthetic ingredient dilutions throughout the scent spectrum, creating over 900 data points. The study concluded Genomatica’s natural
butylene glycol presents certain fragrance ingredients more clearly and more distinctly than natural diluents (benzyl benzoate and isopropyl myristate) and is comparable to the industry standard diluent, dipropylene glycol. The natural butylene glycol ingredient was also noted to have more predictable solubility when fragrance ingredients had lower molecular weight and logP. The second phase of fragrance testing was
recently completed to understand how the natural butylene glycol ingredient operated in complex commercial formulations in which it replaced dipropylene glycol. The natural butylene glycol ingredient was incorporated into six complex, commercially-ready formulations, where it was observed that fragrance ingredients were previously insoluble with natural butylene glycol alone. It was concluded that a suite of 30+ other
fragrance ingredients were aiding with solubility. In five of the six formulations—ranging from skin care to a body wash to fine fragrance—natural butylene glycol provided excellent solubility and improved organoleptic performance compared to dipropylene glycol-based counterparts. “Brontide proves to be a formidable
alternative to conventional diluent systems in fragrances and related applications,” says Chris Diienno, master perfumer at MOCA Fragrances. “Results indicate that Brontide can provide improved fragrance efficacy in varying applications that commonly use dipropylene glycol as the main diluent, acting as a replacement or co-solvent.” In many cases, diluents can alter a
Figure 1: A comparison of the traditional petrochemical-based butylene glycol production process and Genomatica’s sustainable production process
fragrance’s scent, prompting the need for additional ingredients to help achieve the desired aroma and product. However, this study found that Genomatica’s natural butylene glycol ingredient successfully enhanced the fragrance without diminishing or changing the formulation’s scent, improving performance and eliminating the need to increase the level of expensive fragrance ingredients to achieve the desired outcome.
Antimicrobial properties A study published in Journal of Applied Microbiology found 90% of cosmetic products tested contained bacteria that potentially could cause skin infections and, in some cases—specifically when a product is used near the eyes, mouth or other orifices—blood poisoning.3
P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E. coli and Bacillus species are all common microbes that can sometimes be found in beauty products.4 The natural butylene glycol ingredient has
demonstrated antimicrobial properties that can possibly mitigate the contamination seen in this study. To determine natural butylene glycol’s antimicrobial strength, a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) evaluation was performed. Five microbes commonly found in personal
care products were mixed with water gradations of natural diols and triols (the natural butylene
A solvent with antimicrobial properties
Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) tests show Brontide natural butylene glycol has an increase ability to inhibit microbial growth compared to 1,3 propanediol and glycerin. Brontide
Organism
S aureus
E.coli
P aeruginosa C albicans
A brasiliensis
mg/ml 225 100 175
225 >350
1,3 PG mg/ml
300 225 200 250
>350 Lower values represent stronger antimicrobial efficacy Figure 2: A comparison of antimicrobial properties in personal care product diols PERSONAL CARE March 2023
Glycerin mg/ml
>350 >350 >350 >350 >350
1:1 Glycerin + Propanediol
mg/ml >350 300 225 250
>350
1:1 Glycerin + Brontide
mg/ml
3005.0 250 200 300
>350
glycol ingredient, propanediol and glycerin). The study revealed that as the diol or triol concentration increased, the chance of microorganism reproduction decreased (Figure 2).
The data from this study can be used to
determine the concentration of the natural butylene glycol ingredient needed to entirely inhibit the growth of the five microbes in the study. The natural butylene glycol ingredient can be used to improve antimicrobial efficacy and reduce concentrations of preservatives or hurdle systems, which often contain ingredients such as parabens that have been linked to health issues and ecological destruction.
Mould, yeasts, and bacteria such as
Sensory performance In another study, Genomatica collaborated with UK-based research and development firm Here2Grow to measure the skin feel performance of natural solvents in hand creams and to underscore the efficacy of using natural ingredients in personal care products. The study compared three diols and triols (the natural butylene glycol ingredient, propanediol, and glycerin), in identical, oil-in- water hand cream formulations. The evaluation included 28 participants who were educated and calibrated to perceive differences in each sensorial attribute examined: appearance, gloss/shine, rub-out, ability to be spread, grease, after-feel, stickiness, slipperiness, leftover residue and absorbency. Using a scale of 1-9, participants were asked to consider the attributes of the products and rank their performance. The study concluded the natural butylene
glycol ingredient was comparable to, or better than, glycerin and propanediol in eight of the ten attributes in the formulations tested (Figure 3). In the categories of slipperiness, ability to
be spread and gloss/shine, the natural butylene glycol ingredient ranked higher than glycerin and propanediol. Compared to propanediol and glycerin, the natural butylene glycol ingredient also contributed the lowest greasy feeling and
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