44 NATURALS TABLE 1: IN VIVO SPF TESTING FORMULATIONS Control Formulations Phase A Ingredient (Trade Name) Deionized Water
Protacide Trisodium EDTA Triethanolamine 99%
Water
Tri-Sodium EDTA Triethanolamine
Glycerin - vegetable derived Glycerin Veegum CH Vanzan NF-C Protasorb L-20
B Lotion Crafter GMS
Stearic Acid NF - vegetable Ester AB
Escalol 507 C
Protaphenone-3 Zinc Oxide USP Barguard CP
* Micro Powders test materials incorporated at 5% (w/w) Rice bran wax has been produced for
hundreds of years and has proven to be a durable and versatile wax, as the winterization process does not damage the essential properties of the wax, unlike many other processes do. Additionally, it primarily consists of high molecular weight monoesters ranging from C-46 to C-66. We were interested in learning about the impact on different particle shapes, so we investigated both our rice bran wax with an irregular particle shape (Naturesoft 860R) as well as one with a spherical shape (Naturesoft 860S). In addition to the rice bran wax, we evaluated our composite of Rice Bran Wax and Green Tea Leaf Extract, Camellia sinensis (Naturesoft 880GT).
Natural green tea leaf extract Natural green tea leaf extract is sourced as a by- product of the decaffeination process. This leaf extract is typically disposed of but we repurpose the waste stream, making it another upcycled material.
The benefits of green tea are mainly
attributed to its polyphenol content, particularly flavanols and flavonols, which represent 30% of fresh leaf dry weight. Recently, many of the aforementioned beneficial effects of green tea were attributed to its most abundant catechin, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Green tea extracts are more stable than pure epigallocatechin gallate, one of the major constituents of green tea, because of the presence of other antioxidant constituents in the extract.6 All our natural fine powders used for the SPF
testing have worldwide cosmetic use approval, COSMOS certification, and an ISO 16128 natural index value of 1. They are also all freshwater biodegradable in accordance with OECD 301.7
SPF in vivo test protocol & criteria The test product samples were SPF tested at an independent certified testing facility under SOP # 2011-04, Static SPF Testing, as set forth
by the FDA, 21 CFR Sec. 201.347, subpart (i), SPF Test Procedure, Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use, Final Monograph, Federal Register, Vol. 76, No. 117, June 17, 2011.8 A complete ten subject Static SPF study was conducted, which included the mean SPF value and a projected label SPF value based on a completed 10 subject test panel. Fair-skinned subjects, male and female,
eighteen years of age or older, of skin types I, II, or III as defined in FDA, 21 CFR, Sec. 201.347, subpart (i), SPF Test Procedure, (3) Test Subjects, (ii) Medical History, (B) Skin Type, June 17, 2011. Type I = always burns easily, never tans (sensitive); Type II = Always burns easily, tans minimally (sensitive); Type III = Burns moderately, tans gradually (normal).
Inclusion criteria ■ The test panelists were selected based on the following criteria. ■ Individuals eighteen years of age or older
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Xanthan Gum Polysorbate 20 Glyceryl Stearate Stearic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Octyl Dimethyl PABA Oxybenzone Zinc Oxide
Protameen
Vanderbilt Minerals Vanderbilt Minerals Protameen
Lotion Crafter Lotion Crafter Lotion Crafter Ashalnd
Protameen Ever Zinc
Capryl Glycol/Phenoxyethanol/Hexylene Glycol Ashalnd INCI Supplier Organic
Sunscreens % (w/w) 66.6
0.2 1.3 5
0.35 0.25 2.5 3
2.8 7.5 7 3
0.5 Inorganic
Sunscreens % (w/w) 51.6
0.2 1.3 5
0.35 0.25 2.5 3
2.8 17.5
15 0.5
PERSONAL CARE March 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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