NATURALS
Novel natural fine wax powders for boosting SPF
Diana Smith, Ranell Santa Cruz, Arvind Shah - Micro Powders, Inc.
There is an increasing interest in natural raw materials to not only help improve sunscreen performance but also be environmentally conscious and sustainable. Micro Powders has found that by micronizing select natural waxes, multiple benefits in sun care formulations can be achieved. These resulting ultrafine powders have
been shown to boost SPF in both organic and inorganic sunscreens. In addition, due to their inherent physical properties and tailored design, they can be used in sun care formulations to enhance other functionalities including stability, dry time, and reduction of heavy/greasy aesthetics common with organic sunscreens, all while imparting pleasing and attractive aesthetics. In lieu of the US FDA monograph released in
February 2019, several challenges have surfaced regarding sunscreen formulations. One challenge is to produce similar performing organic-based sunscreens using only high-SPF inorganic sun blocks. Due to the limited raw material choices and whitening effects associated with inorganic formulations, it has become a daunting task to develop newer alternatives that meet the needs of both consumers and the environment. In addition to the sunscreen challenge,
the evolution and growth of a circular beauty initiative has driven the demand for renewable, multi-functional, and high-performance natural- based raw materials. These are imperative when revitalizing and transforming formulations into more sustainable products. But accomplishing this green initiative, while also improving sunscreen performance and providing acceptable aesthetics, can be difficult to achieve. In this article, we discuss how select fine
natural wax powders influence SPF improvement in both organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations. The actual in vivo SPF test results are reviewed, demonstrating the boosting capacity of each natural wax powder in various sunscreen formulations. We also review the visual appearance of these formulations on skin and the inherent attributes imparted by each natural powder in those sunscreen formulations. The results indicate that these natural powders will optimize sunscreen performance and enhance aesthetics in environmentally conscious consumer products. Traditional SPF boosters have typically been acrylic/synthetic-based materials. Micro Powders decided to investigate select natural fine powders and their ability to help boost
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SPF in sunscreen formulations. The objective was to replace synthetic boosters with natural alternatives that not only provide desired SPF, but also potentially reduce the amount of sunscreens (both organic and inorganic).
Test materials Natural waxes are inherently hydrophobic and by micronizing these waxes to an ultra-fine micron particle size, a homogenous film on surface of skin can be produced allowing sunscreens to block or absorb UV effectively. The first natural wax investigated was carnauba wax.
Carnauba wax Carnauba wax is the wax from the leaves of the carnauba palm Copernicia prunifera, also known as Copernicia cerifera, a plant native to and grown only in the northeastern Brazilian states of Ceará, Piauí, Pernambuco, Rio Grande do Norte, Maranhão and Bahia.1 ‘Queen of Waxes’.2
It is known as the In its pure state, it is usually
available in the form of hard yellow-brown flakes. It is obtained by collecting and drying the leaves, beating them to loosen the wax, then refining and bleaching it.3 Carnauba wax consists mostly of aliphatic
esters, diesters of 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, ω-hydroxycarboxylic acids, and fatty alcohols.
The compounds are predominantly derived from acids and alcohols in the C26-C30 range. It is distinctive for its high content of diesters and its methoxycinnamic acid.4 Carnauba wax is sold in grades of T1, T3, and
T4 according to color (determined by the age of the palm leaves) and the wax is processed by filtration, centrifugation, and bleaching. Micro Powders’ fine powder derived from carnauba wax (Microcare 350) is only sourced from companies aligned with Sindcarnauba and/ or the Institute for Responsible Carnauba. Both organizations ensure that ethical and sustainable sourcing practices are used.
Rice bran wax Rice bran wax is another natural wax we investigated of the species Oryza sativa. Rice is one of the world’s largest crops and serves as a staple food for a large part of the world’s human population. It is also a highly sustainable and environmentally responsible source of wax. Produced as a derivative of rice husks that would otherwise go to waste, the wax is upcycled. By upcycling waste materials from the food and forestry industries, cosmetic companies can help reduce their impact on the environment, limiting the depletion of natural resources while supporting circular economy and beauty initiatives.5
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
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