90 ANTI-AGEING
Reprogramming skin with biomimetic peptides
Issei Haruta, Philippe Moussou - BASF Beauty Care Solutions
The increasing popularity of dermocosmetic skincare can be attributed to the growing interest in consumers that seek for pre-ageing solutions as early as in their twenties. The growing awareness of the properties and mechanisms behind skincare ingredients - as well as the desire for premium products that can deliver potent, visible efficacies with the highlight on safety - have added further momentum to the growing dermocosmetic market. To help achieve the beauty aspirations of the
consumers, BASF, in corporation with Caregen, a Korean-based company and global leader in biomimetic peptide research, launched the PeptovitaeTM
series, a new generation of
scientifically developed biomimetic peptides that can address various skin concerns such as ageing, enhancing melanin degradation, acne prone skin, to reducing inflammatory effects in sensitized skin. Biomimetic peptides were designed to mimic native biological mechanisms that trigger specific biological pathways for desired action in skin cells and can serve as attractive solutions to support consumer needs for targeted solutions to specific skin concerns.
Peptides in scope Peptides are comprised of short chains of amino acids. In recent years, peptides have received increased interest in various fields including cosmetics. Their prominent role in nature and their applicability in many physiological processes highlights their value as cosmetic ingredients.
Phospholipid
Hydrophilic head
Hydrophilic heads
Hydrophilic fatty acid tails
Hydrophilic tail
Hydrophilic heads
Water
The high potency, specificity and good
safety profiles are notable strengths of bioactive peptides. Their relevant functionalities in skin care includes cell proliferation and migration, anti-inflammatory and extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis.1,2,3 Additionally, since they are comprised of amino acids, peptides can be easily processed by body tissues over time and are able to circumvent issues with tolerance.4,5
Seeking
highly effective solutions, consumers have come across peptides as hero ingredients for
Lipid bilayer Water
their personalized skincare regimes. Peptides are now an important class of cosmetic active ingredients that have been widely used as topical agents for alleviating signs of ageing.2,6
Growth factors as an inspiration for biomimetic peptides Human growth factors (GF) are polypeptides or proteins that play a key role in regulating physiological processes. They are essential in maintaining healthy skin structure and function.7,8,9
GFs are produced and secreted Liposome
Figure 1: Schematic representation of the liposomal skin delivery system PERSONAL CARE March 2023
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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