46 NATURALS
35.00 30.00 25.00 20.00 15.00 10.00 5.00 0.00
27.10% 29.75%
SPF ■ % Boost ■ 33.00%
21.18 26.92 27.48 28.17
30.00 25.00 20.00 15.00 10.00 5.00 0.00
Control Microcare 350 Naturesoft 860S Naturesoft 860R Figure 3: SPF boosting with inorganic sunscreen (ZnO)
would improve the SPF performance, and this was supported by the resulting data shown in Figure 2. Note that the data in Figure 1 is repeated along with the new addition of the composite as illustrated in the right-most column of Figure 2. The results indicate that the addition of green tea to our rice bran wax achieved a dramatic increase in SPF boosting. We then examined our natural test powders
in inorganic sunscreen formulation, noting that the inorganic sunscreen we included was non- dispersed and non-nano zinc oxide. Refer to test data graphically displayed below in Figure 3. Note that this SPF testing was conducted prior to our testing with the composite of rice bran wax and green tea leaf extract. Those results are shown separately as they were tested later. As was the case with the organic sunscreen
test formulations, both carnauba wax and rice bran wax significantly improved SPF, with a slight variation in performance with the irregular versus spherical shaped rice bran wax. Since the rice bran wax performed so well with the inorganic zinc oxide formula, we decided to also test the composite of rice bran wax with green tea leaf extract (Naturesoft 880GT), noting that we have not yet completed the full testing of the composite (green column) but have achieved five results out of the full ten needed to complete study. The results illustrated in Figure 4 show just how well the composite escalates the SPF performance.
Improved sensory and aesthetics Rice bran wax is an efficient oil binder and helps reduce the heaviness and oiliness attributed by oil-soluble emollients and organic sunscreens. This sequestering of the oils in the formulation will also help reduce the chance of migration
55.00
SPF ■ % Boost ■ 53.68%
41.25 27.10% 27.50 29.74%
33.00%
13.75
21.18 0.00
26.92
27.48
28.17
32.55
No booster Control/
Microcare 350
Naturesoft 860R
Naturesoft 860S
Naturesoft 880GT
Figure 4: FDA 2011 static SPF data of inorganic based sunscreen with natural SPF boosters
synthetic polymers and co-polymers for the same function. With the growing concerns around sunscreens
and their effects on the environment, their addition to sunscreen-containing formulations can not only improve the performance of the sunscreens, but can also potentially reduce the amount of sunscreen actives to provide the desired protection. Additional sensory and aesthetic benefits can also be achieved which are not only beneficial for the consumer, but also for the environment. By using less materials, much more can be achieved with less impact on the Earth’s resources.
PC Carnauba palm
of the sunscreens which is important in facial products, especially those used around the sensitive eye area. As illustrated in the SPF data, the sunscreens will perform better with the incorporation of the natural powders without being detrimental to their performance, while also accelerating them. In addition, the spherical rice bran wax
provides additional slip and lubricity, and has been proven to be a superior material for soft focus and optical blurring. These properties are particularly beneficial in sunscreen containing anti-age treatments. Carnauba wax is well known for its
substantivity and long wear/durability–where it is applied is where it will stay. This attribute lends itself to all-day performance and applications that are intended to last for many hours. Green tea leaf extract is rich in polyphenols
and catechins and is a highly effective anti- oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. In sunscreen-containing formulations this can provide an additional calming and soothing effect on the skin after exposure to UV.
Conclusion As reflected in the SPF data presented in this study, it is possible to improve SPF performance of both organic and inorganic sunscreens with the addition of sustainable,
Rice grain PERSONAL CARE March 2023
biodegradable, and natural fine powders that can potentially replace the need for utilizing
References 1. Steinle JV. (September 1936). Carnauba wax: an expedition to its source. Industrial & Engineering Chemistry. 28 (9): 1004-1008. Doi: 10.1021/ie50321a003
2. Parish EJ, Boos T, Li S. (2002). The Chemistry of Waxes and Sterols. In: Akoh CC, Min DB (ed.). Food lipids: chemistry, nutrition, and biochemistry (2nd p.103
ed.). New York: M. Dekker.
3. Associacao Caatinga. BMU-IKI/GIZ (2019). Good Practices Manual for the Carnauba supply chain
4. Wolfmeier U, Schmidt H, Heinrichs F-L, Michalczyk G, Payer W, Dietsche W, Boehlke K, Hohner G, Wildgruber J. (2000). Waxes. Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Doi:10.1002/14356007.a28_103
5. Lionetti N, Montoli M. (2022). How upcycling advances zero waste beauty. Cosm & Toil. 137(7) 44-49
6. Harold N, Graham PD (1992). Green tea composition, consumption and polyphenol chemistry. Journal of Preventive Medicine and Hygiene. 1992; May;21(3):334-50
7. OECD (2009). Test No. 302C: Inherent Biodegradability: Modified MITI Test (II), OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals. Section 3. OECD Publishing, Paris. http://doi. org/10.1787/9789264070400-en
8. US Food and Drug Administration. Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use. Final Monograph, 21 CFR Sec. 201.347, subpart (i), SPF Test Procedure, Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use. Federal Register, Vol. 76, No. 117, June 17, 2011
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