40 NATURALS


In particular, the concentration of iron, titanium, nickel and barium in the soil of different geographical locations, showed a significant correlation with their concentrations in the oil.8


The presence of metal traces in the


oil could be beneficial for health, but higher concentrations could have safety concerns, especially for heavy metals like lead and mercury. A recent study investigated the presence


of heavy metals in several Italian hemp plants (Cannabis sativa L.) from different locations. Based on harvesting location, some hemp plants exceeded the current regulatory safety limits for cobalt, copper, chromium, nickel and lead. A principal component analysis confirmed that trace elements, including toxic metals, were mainly affected by geographical origin more than botanical diversity.9 Another study determined the


concentrations of lead, cadmium and mercury in extracts from horsetail (Equisetum arvense), Nettle (Urtica dioica), St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum), wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), yarrow (Achillea millefolium) and cottonwood (Solidago virgaurea) collected from the natural environment in two different locations in Poland. Depending on the origin and species of


plants, the correlation between different concentrations of heavy metals was found. The mean concentration of all studied metals was the highest in nettle and the lowest in St. John’s wort.10


The influence of plant geographical location - genotype Resident plants encounter environmental conditions depending on geographical location. Based on their genetic profile, the physiological and behavioural responses are altered. In general, the genotype remains the same but occasional spontaneous mutations may cause it to change.11 This fact contributes to different subspecies


of the same plant genus in different parts of the world. In the ensuing paragraphs, ginseng and aloe plants are chosen to present the variety of


PERSONAL CARE March 2023


species and their chemical composition based on environmental pressure and/or breeding. Ginseng is a widely used ingredient. The


genus Panax includes species growing in different environments across the world. The Chinese (Panax notoginseng) and Korean ginseng (Panax Ginseng) present differences in the content of saponins in the root extract. The content in P. notoginseng is almost three times higher than in P. ginseng, where the polysaccharides were higher.12 Aloe is another common plant used in


cosmetic products with Aloe Vera and Aloe Barbadensis extracts being the most used and popular. Many aloe species develop in different ways and have chemical profiles depending on the location where they grow. Those varieties are mostly ignored by the cosmetic industry due to a lack of supply and/or scientific knowledge. One study analyzed different species of


aloe from South Africa and their chemical composition. Aloe aculeata and Aloe ferox, presented the highest content in carotenoids. Regarding fatty acid profile: linolenic and linoleic acids were the major polyunsaturated fatty acids found in higher percentages in Aloe ferox, Aloe spectabilis and Aloe marlothii. Conversely, Aloe aculeata showed a special


fatty acid profile, rich in monounsaturated fatty acids. Species such as Aloe arborescens and Aloe marlothii had the highest antioxidant potential among the investigated species and the richest one in vitamin C was Aloe spectabilis.13


The importance of the genotype highlights


the value of the endemic species and their chemical signature as a difference to preserve locally. A clear expression of biodiversity with its specificity value that can be appreciated by the sophisticated formulator looking for particular traits associated with a common and popular genus but different species. Not every aloe is the same!


The influence of extraction methods To obtain natural activities from plants, many types of extraction methods can be used. The methodology will determine the quality


and quantity of certain phytochemicals. The properties of the extraction solvent, the particle size of the raw materials, the solvent-to-solid ratio, the extraction temperature and the extraction duration will affect the extraction efficiency and chemical composition.14 Even though conventional extractions like liquid–liquid extraction, solid-phase extraction, or distillation, are still mainly used procedures in cosmetic sample preparation, problems such as high volumes of toxic solvents, matrix interferences, emulsion formation, or scarce pre-concentration factors are inevitable. To provide greener, faster and more


effective extractions with cleaner extracts for cosmetic analysis, modern sample procedures are developed. Some of those techniques are liquid-phase microextraction, microwave- assisted extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, accelerated solvent extraction and supercritical fluid extraction. The volumes used for extraction have been greatly diminished, leading to miniaturized and virtually solvent- free procedures.15 A study conducted on green tea (Camellia


sinensis) shows the importance of solvents and methods used in extraction to obtain a higher concentration of substances of interest. In this case, the BGG-4 solvent (betaine, glycerol, and D-(þ)-glucose, 4:20:1) compared with methanol showed better stability of catechins after storage. Moreover, the ultrasound-assisted extraction resulted in significantly higher extraction yields than alternative methods involving high temperature and/or long extraction times.16 A study on almond oil (Prunus amygdalus


dulcis) shows how extraction techniques can influence the fatty acid composition, physicochemical properties, bioactive substances, and thermal stability. It was concluded that physicochemical properties obtained by subcritical fluid extraction had better oil quality compared to cold-press extraction and hydraulic press extraction. The extraction was not only thermally


more stable, but had the highest levels of total phenolics, phytosterols, tocopherols, and


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