NATURALS
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Phyteq
raspberry 0.5%
1.4 1.2 1
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
Hydroxy
acetophenone 0.5%
Ascorbic acid 0.5%
Figure 3: Results of in tubo DPPH assay with phyteq raspberry multifunctional, ascorbic acid and hydroxy acetophenone at 517nm
is not promoting any effect at the same concentration. Raspberry ketone can prevent metal ion catalyzed generation of reactive species leading to reductive cascades (Figure 4).
Peroxidation protection A lipid peroxidation study was performed to investigate the ability of the raspberry multifunctional ingredient to protect lipids in cells and membranes against oxidative stress. The positive control in the assay was 0.5%
gallic acid and stress was induced by hydrogen peroxide and heating (1.7mmol at 95°C for two hours). The results (Figure 5) show the
Standard Hydroxy
acetophenone 0.5%
Ascorbic acid 0.5%
Figure 4: Results of FRAP assay measured by optical density (OD) evaluated with a colorimetric probe at 700nm, phyteq raspberry multifunctional in propanediol, ascorbic acid in water, hydroxy acetophenone in ethanol/DMSO
percentage of linoleic acid remaining after oxidation stress quantified by HPLC-MS. 72% of linoleic acid become oxidized under stress conditions. With the addition of 0.5% raspberry multifunctional ingredient the peroxidation is reduced at 20%, an addition of 0.1% of the benchmark gallic acid leads to a decrease of 38%.
Enzyme inhibition Inhibiting collagenase and elastase helps to protect the skin elasticity which may be stressed by UV, IR or blue light. In tubo enzyme inhibition activity is used to understand the characteristics of a substrate to protect the
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
55
Standard
Standard + stress
acid 0.5% Gallic
Phyteq
raspberry 0.5%
Figure 5: Results of lipid peroxidation assay, control: gallic acid, phyteq raspberry multifunctional in propanediol, stress: 1,7 mmol oxygen peroxide for 2hours at 95°C
ECM (extracellular matrix) from the digestion by MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases) such as collagenase or elastase. In order to demonstrate the ability of the
raspberry multifunctional ingredient to limiting the activity of well-known MMPs impacting skin health collagenase and elastase, two in tubo assays were performed with 0.5% of the multifunctional. First, the active ingredient was incubated with the enzyme collagenase (type IV from Clostridium histolyticum) and reaction buffer for 25 minutes at room temperature. The final enzyme concentration is 0.2 units/ml. After incubation, the substrate of the enzyme, the
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2023 PERSONAL CARE
DPPH scavenging activity %
Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)
Linoleic acid stress assay %
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