94 PRESERVATION


for microbial enzyme systems and replication. By depriving microbes of these cofactors, chelation slows microbial growth and amplifies the effects of other hurdles, particularly acids and membrane disruptors. Polyols and other humectants lower


the amount of free water available for microbial proliferation. Reduced water activity complements low-pH environments and multifunctional boosters to further limit microbial survival. Finally, CHA is cold-processable. Cold process


manufacturing protects sensitive multifunctional ingredients from thermal degradation, preserves their activity, and simplifies handling—supporting consistent performance of mild, synergistic preservation systems.


A phenoxyethanol-free solution Consumers and brands are moving away from phenoxyethanol (PE) due to rising safety concerns, regulatory scrutiny, clean beauty influence, and sensitization issues. Phenoxyethanol has increasingly become a ‘controversial’ ingredient within the clean beauty movement. Consumers, especially those influenced by


clean beauty media, avoid ingredients perceived as synthetic, harsh, or unsafe. Clean beauty advocates categorize phenoxyethanol among ingredients suspected of irritation, hormone disruption, or environmental impact. Rising reports of sensitization and irritation,


especially in leave on products, have been reported in dermatology literature. FDA warnings about PE in baby care products, elevated consumer anxiety.


Advantages of CHA over other organic acids Unlike traditional organic acids that require pH dependent protonation to work, CHA works regardless of pH dependent dissociation, making it far more predictable and robust across diverse formula types. CHA is 100% natural, microbiome- friendly, multi-functional, biodegradable, and cold processable. CHA supports mild, skin friendly pH formulations


(pH 4.0–8.0), which are now standard in facial care and sensitive skin products. In contrast, benzoic/ sorbic systems force the entire formulation into acidic pH zones (<4.0). That often makes them incompatible with skin barrier science and modern sensory expectations. CHA provides core preservation power, while


hydroxyacetophenone (HAP) serves as a supportive multifunctional enhancer. Specifically, CHA provides strong yeast and mould control, which are essential for achieving broad spectrum protection. CHA functions as a chelating agent, disrupting


microbial metal dependent systems and strengthening overall efficacy. CHA serves as the foundational hurdle in Inolex’s preservation architecture, such as Spectrastat™. Spectrastat is a complete preservative system,


while HAP is only a booster and stabilizer. HAP may be described as a multifunctional enhancer. This antioxidant and soothing agent improves


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026


skin comfort and formula stability. It acts as a preservative booster, supporting bacteriostatic effects. HAP enhances mildness, reduces oxidative degradation, and supports premium sensory profiles. Finally, CHA enables low irritation, natural,


preservative free systems aligned with clean beauty expectations. Many formulators understand the benefits


of CHA. According to Mintel, more than 15,000 products globally contain CHA, with approximately 45% launched in Asia Pacific and around 50% across the United States and EU. Notably, over 85% of these CHA containing


Hydroxamic acid benefit Degree of lonization as f(pH)


100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0


3 4 Figure 1: Efficacy-based pH chart www.personalcaremagazine.com 5 pH 6 7


products carry ‘Natural’, ‘Ethical’, ‘Eco- friendly, or ‘clean label “free from”’ claims. CHA is accepted by regulators around the world, including China, Canada and Australia.


Regulatory outlook Regulations in China, EU and US are rapidly converging toward safer, more transparent, and more sustainable preservation approaches. The European Union (EU) is tightening


ingredient safety through new bans and restrictions under the 2024/996 amendment, while advancing environmental priorities. The EU direction is clear: movement toward biodegradable, low persistence systems and away from legacy chemistries with safety or environmental burdens. The United States and Canada are accelerating


ingredient restrictions related to irritation, sensitization, toxicity, and environmental persistence. State level bans and Canada’s evolving Hotlist are pushing brands toward ‘clean listed’, low irritation preservation systems supported by stronger documentation, supplier transparency, and clearer labelling. Meanwhile, China’s newish regulation


system (CSAR - Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation) continues to elevate expectations for safety assessments, robust challenge testing, lifecycle substantiation, and electronic labelling. Ingredient oversight is expanding, reinforcing the need for defensible, science-backed preservation strategies. Overall, global markets are aligning toward


stricter safety, greater transparency, environmental accountability, and stronger documentation rigour. This raises the bar for how preservatives are selected, validated, justified, and disclosed— favouring integrated preservation strategies to build multi-mode actions, minimal irritation and sustainability driven principles.


Caprylhydroxamic acid ■ Dehydroacetic acid ■ Benzoic acid ■ Sorbic acid ■ Levulinic acid ■ Anisic acid ■ Salicylic acid ■


100% available for preservation


50% available for preservation


0% available for preservation


Percent in acid form


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