SKIN HYDRATION 53 The results demonstrated a significant increase
in AQP3 expression in treated samples compared to basal control, with a +66.8% enhancement in fluorescence intensity (p < 0.001) (Figure 4). Microscopic observations confirmed a higher presence of AQP3 in the epidermal layers following treatment, indicating an upregulation of this water channel protein (Figure 5). These findings support the ability of the
Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract to stimulate AQP3 expression in human skin, thereby enhancing epidermal water transport and contributing to improved skin hydration and barrier function.
Reduction of the inflammatory response The effects of the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract on inflammatory processes were evaluated by analysing key cytokines involved in skin disorders. Human dermal fibroblasts (FBH) and THP-1 monocytes were stimulated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) to induce an inflammatory response, and the production of interleukin-13 (IL-13) and interleukin-31 (IL-31) was quantified using ELISA after three days of treatment. The results demonstrated that the extract
significantly reduced the production of both cytokines in a dose-dependent manner. In fibroblasts, IL-13 levels were markedly decreased, indicating a potential modulation of inflammatory pathways associated with atopic skin responses (Figure 6). Similarly, in THP-1 cells, IL-31 production was reduced, a cytokine closely linked to pruritus and skin discomfort (Figure 7). These findings indicate that, beyond its
role in enhancing skin hydration through AQP3 upregulation, the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract also contributes to the regulation of inflammatory responses. By reducing mediators associated with both inflammation and pruritus, the extract supports overall skin homeostasis and reinforces its potential application in sensitive or atopy-prone skin.
Conclusion Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) plays a central role in maintaining skin hydration and overall epidermal homeostasis by facilitating the transport of water and glycerol across keratinocytes. Beyond its fundamental function in hydration,
AQP3 is also involved in key biological processes such as cell proliferation, migration, and barrier repair, highlighting its importance in skin physiology. Alterations in AQP3 expression or localization
have been associated with impaired skin hydration, barrier dysfunction, and pathological conditions such as eczema, where its absence correlates with intercellular edema (spongiosis). In this context, Cistanthe grandiflora, a plant
naturally adapted to one of the most extreme and arid environments on Earth, represents a unique biological model of water regulation and cellular resilience. Building on these adaptive strategies, a stem cell-derived extract from this plant has been
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Evaluation of IL-13 in FBH culture #
800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
Control
LPS 50 µg/mL
Figure 6: Evaluation of IL-13 in FBH culture
Evaluation of IL-31 in THP-1 culture #
200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control
LPS 50 µg/mL
Figure 7: Evaluation of IL-31 in THP-1 culture
developed as a biotechnological active capable of translating this natural efficiency into skin benefits. The results obtained demonstrate its ability to stimulate both AQP3 gene expression and AQP3 protein production in human skin models. By enhancing AQP3 levels, this ingredient supports the regulation of water homeostasis within the epidermis, promoting long-lasting hydration and reinforcing the skin’s adaptive capacity to environmental stress. Altogether, these findings highlight AQP3 as
a key molecular target for innovative skin care strategies and position the Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract as a promising approach for improving skin hydration and potentially contributing to the prevention of hydration-related skin alterations.
References 1. Ritter B et al. Climatic fluctuations in the hyperarid core of the Atacama Desert. Sci Rep. 2019;9:41743
2. Gómez-Silva B, Bull AT, et al. The Atacama Desert: A biodiversity hotspot and not just a mineral desert. Front Microbiol. 2022;13:812842
3. Ruhm J et al. Plant life at the dry limit — Spatial patterns of floristic diversity in the Atacama
Desert. Ecol Evol. 2020;10:10468-10483
4. Mörchen R et al. Fingerprint of plant life in the Atacama Desert. J Arid Environ. 2021;187:104386
5. Agre P. Membrane water transport and aquaporins: looking back. Biol Cell. 2005;97(6):355-356
6. Tricarico PM et al. Aquaporins are one of the critical factors in the disruption of the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases. Int J Mol Sci. 2022;23(7):4020
7. Boury-Jamot M et al. Skin aquaporins: Function in hydration, wound healing, and skin epidermis homeostasis. Handb Exp Pharmacol. 2008;190:205-217
PCM
8. Dumas M et al. Hydrating skin by stimulating biosynthesis of aquaporins. J Drugs Dermatol. 2007;6(6 Suppl):S20-S24
9. Boury-Jamot M et al. Expression and function of aquaporins in human skin: Is aquaporin-3 just a glycerol transporter? Biochim Biophys Acta Biomembr. 2006;1758(8):1034-1042
10. Holtum JAM et al. CAM photosynthesis in desert blooming Cistanthe of the Atacama, Chile. Funct Plant Biol. 2021;48(7):691-702
11. Sun Q et al. Plant aquaporins: Their roles beyond water transport. Crop J. 2024;12(3):641- 655
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
-25.7% **
Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract 1% ■ -18.7% ** -18.0%
1%
0.3%
0.1% # p<0.001 compared to baseline control; ***p<0.001 compared to LPS; **p<0.01 compared to LPS.
Cistanthe grandiflora stem cell extract 1% ■ -25.6% * -23.2%
1%
0.3% # p<0.001 compared to baseline control; *p<0.05 compared to LPS.
IL-13 (pg/mL)
IL-13 (pg/mL)
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