SKIN CARE 67
branched molecular configuration is presumed to facilitate the formation of a three-dimensional, hydrated polymer network, rather than a continuous planar film typically associated with linear HA, thereby enabling efficient moisture retention combined with enhanced structural flexibility (Figure 1). The samples were analysed using
chromatographic methods to quantify individual monosaccharides. The relative composition was calculated based on peak area normalization, allowing comparison with conventional Tremella polysaccharide extracts.
Cellular hydration mechanisms: beyond surface film formation In vitro evaluation using human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) demonstrated that treatment with Tremella mycelial polysaccharides significantly enhanced endogenous HA synthesis compared to untreated controls. Notably, at equivalent non-cytotoxic
concentrations, HA production induced by the Tremella polysaccharides exceeded that observed with exogenous high-molecular-weight HA treatment. In parallel, the expression of aquaporin-3 (AQP3), a key membrane channel responsible for intracellular water and glycerol transport, was up-regulated in a dose-dependent manner (Figure 2, Figure 3). This dual action, combining enhanced
extracellular water retention with improved transcellular water transport, suggests a hydration mechanism that extends beyond passive surface moisturizing. From a functional perspective, this contrasts with conventional 1M Da HA, which primarily acts as an external humectant with limited biological interaction at the cellular level.
Improvement in skin hydration A total of five healthy adult volunteers (mean age 31.8 years; range 24–41) participated in this study. The test group applied a formulation containing 2% Tremella mycelial polysaccharides, while the control group used a placebo formulation without the active ingredient. Both products were applied to the facial skin twice daily (morning and evening) for one week. Skin hydration was evaluated at baseline
and following the seven-day application period. Stratum corneum hydration was quantitatively assessed using a Corneometer® CM 825, which measures electrical capacitance. To ensure data accuracy, all measurements were conducted under standardized temperature and humidity conditions after a sufficient period of skin stabilization. After one week of application, the test product
group exhibited a clear improvement in skin hydration. The mean skin moisture level increased from 52.99 at baseline to 56.54 after one week of use, corresponding to a 6.69% increase, which was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In contrast, the control group showed a slight decline in skin hydration over the same period. The mean hydration value decreased from
52.21 to 51.23 after one week of application. When directly compared, the test product group exhibited a 9.06% higher hydration improvement
www.personalcaremagazine.com Result Fitting 3.0x106 Molar mass 1 ■ LS ■ RI ■
2.0x106
1.0x106 11.5 12.0 12.5 Time (min)
Figure 1: Monosaccharide composition and average molecular weight distribution. The average molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of the Tremella mycelial polysaccharides were analysed by HPLC-multiangle light scattering (MALS) system (Wyatt Technology, Santa Barbara, CA, USA)
HA Production (% of Control)
200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
# 137.4 * 100 90.5 119.8 * 97.2 102.2 * 156.7 * 124 * HA (1M Da) ■ TFMPs ■ 13.0
Mw: 1.798x106 13.5
(±0.721%) 14.0
Control
100
200 Sample (µg/mL)
Figure 2: Induction of hyaluronic acid production in human keratinocytes. The polysaccharide treatment significantly increased endogenous HA production compared with the untreated control and high-molecular-weight HA. Data represent mean ± SD of triplicate experiments. *p < 0.05 vs control, #p < 0.05 Tremella vs HA
AQP3 Production (% of Control) #
200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
# 136.6 * 114.1 * 100 100.4 134.3 * 134.3 *
400
10 10 NAG (nM)
# 136.6 * 128.7 *
Control
100
200 Sample (µg/mL)
Figure 3: Upregulation of Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression. A dose-dependent increase in AQP3 expression was observed, indicating enhanced transcellular water transport capacity. Results are expressed as mean ± SD (n = 3). *p < 0.05 vs control, #p < 0.05 Tremella vs HA
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
400
10 Retinoic acid (µm)
Molar Mass (g/mol)
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