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ANTI-IRRITATION


Mitigating retinol-induced irritation using NADES


Yujin Kim - Activon


Plant-derived extracts are widely used as cosmetic ingredients due to their diverse bioactive compounds. The trend in the cosmetics industry to exclude petroleum-based ingredients has driven the development of cosmetics using various natural extracts. Hot water extraction, commonly used for


obtaining active ingredients from natural sources, is suitable for extracting water-soluble substances and does not raise concerns about residual solvent toxicity. However, it is less effective for extracting non-


polar substances and requires heating to 80-100°C or high pressure due to low extraction efficiency at room temperature. This process can degrade active compounds such as polyphenols. On the other hand, organic solvent extraction


is more effective for non-polar substances, but residual solvents may lead to cytotoxicity and skin irritation, making it less desirable for cosmetic raw material production. To address these issues, extraction methods


using natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) have recently gained attention. NADES are composed of naturally derived substances such as sugars, organic acids, and amino acids, and exhibit unique solvent properties through hydrogen bonding. By adjusting the composition and ratio of


NADES components, extraction conditions can be tailored for the target active ingredients. NADES are highly biodegradable, have low toxicity, and can simultaneously extract both polar and non-polar compounds, depending on the solvent design. Therefore, compared to hot water or organic


solvent extraction, NADES extraction offers improved efficiency and stability for desired actives, providing a safe and sustainable alternative without concerns about residual solvents or cytotoxicity (Figure 1).1


Benefits of rambutan Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum) is a tropical fruit native to southeast Asia. Its peel accounts for about 50% of the total weight, but is mostly discarded as agricultural waste after the fruit is processed for canning. Recent studies have found that rambutan peel is rich in bioactive compounds such as geraniin, corilagin, ellagic acid, and gallic acid, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-carcinogenic effects. These four compounds are considered the


major actives of rambutan peel and are called as ellagitannins.2


Retinol – the rough and the smooth With changing beauty trends and consumer awareness, there is a growing demand for effective active ingredients that minimize skin irritation, retinol for example, is highly valued globally for its outstanding efficacy in promoting collagen synthesis and cell regeneration, thereby improving wrinkles. However, retinol can cause skin irritation,


erythema, and barrier damage, limiting its use for sensitive skin consumers. Retinol is known to activate the TRPV1


(Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid 1) channel, a key membrane protein associated with skin irritation. Retinoic acid binds to the vanilloid- binding pocket of TRPV1, activating the channel and increasing intracellular calcium influx. This, in turn, enhances the expression of


MCP-1, TNF-a, and IL-8 via the NF-kB(Nuclear Factor kappa B) signaling pathway, promoting inflammation and leading to skin irritation and erythema.3 Activation of TRPV1 channel is closely related


to skin sensitivity. Heathy skin maintains stable intracellular calcium levels as TRPV1 is not easily activated, while sensitive skin is more prone to TRPV1 activation by various stimuli, necessitating regulation of intracellular calcium. Against this background, this study established


an effective and eco-friendly method to extract ellagitannins from rambutan peel using the NADES


Figure 1: NADES method for extracting active compounds from rambutan peel PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026 www.personalcaremagazine.com


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