84 ANTI-POLLUTION
with UPM to understand the effect of pollution on skin structure. We applied UPM topically and assessed skin structure integrity by H&E straining. UPM completely disrupted corneal layer (Figure 2) while skin equivalents treated with H-EPS or UPM and H-EPS the skin structure was not altered (Figure 2). To further explore the effect of H-EPS on the skin barrier we assessed the expression of key proteins involved in skin barrier function and showed that H-EPS reinforced skin barrier by inducing corneodesmosin (+46%, p<0,01), involucrin (+42%, p<0,01). In keratinocyte cultures, H-EPS also induced ceramide production by 22% (p<0,01).
These activities explain, at least partially, the
ability of H-EPS to protect skin in the 3D model from the negative effects of pollution (Figure 2). These results show that H-EPS improves skin barrier integrity and protects skin from entry of particle matter. Effect of H-EPS on S. epidermidis S. epidermidis is also involved in skin barrier function. We wondered if H-EPS impacted S. epidermidis growth. To do this, S. epidermidis cultures were treated with increasing doses of H-EPS for 24 hours. H-EPS strongly induced S. epidermidis growth in a dose-dependent manner (Figure 3). Recent studies have shown that S. epidermidis
is also involved in ceramide production [14]. To assess this in vitro, we treated HaCaTs with increasing doses of S. epidermidis and quantified ceramides. S. epidermidis increased ceramides in a dose dependent manner (Table 4). These data suggest that by increasing S. epidermidis growth, H-EPS would increase ceramide production. Zheng et al. [14] showed that
sphingomyelinase from S. epidermidis is secreted on the skin surface where it transforms skin lipids into ceramides. To test the effect of H-EPS on sphingomyelenase-mediated ceramide production we first studied the expression of sphingomyelinase in S. epidermidis treated with H-EPS. Sphyngomyelinase expression was increased
by 2-fold by H-EPS. This data suggested that H-EPS can modulate S. epidermidis-related ceramide production by increasing growth and sphingomyelinase expression.
Clinical trials To assess the function performance of H-EPS we tested the effect of H-EPS in vivo in two independent studies. Both studies were performed on volunteers living in high pollution environments: Paris-area and Guangzhou. For the Paris area study, H-EPS increased
hydration of face skin by 8,4% (p<0,01) after the first month and by 15% (p<0.01) after two months. Skin firmness was increased by 3.6% (p<0.05) after two months while skin roughness decreased by 8% (p<0.01) in one month. Overall skin radiance index was increased by
3% (p<0.05) in one month. In the Guangzhou- study, volunteers stated to have immediate benefits on skin tone and rejuvenation (Figure 4).
0.1 0 0 4 8 12 Time (h) Figure 3: Effect of UPM in S. epidermidis growth
Discussion We studied the effect of H-EPS, a marine-derived oligosaccharide (H-EPS) against pollution. H-EPS was produced via sustainable fermentation of a Pseudoalteromonas strain, isolated from a candelabraoctocoral from the Bahamas. Corals are under increasing environmental pressures due to climate change, leading to increased stress on these organisms.16 It is possible the H-EPS-producing
Pseudoalteromonas may contribute to the homeostasis of its octocoral host, however, additional research would be required to establish the role of this bacterium in octocoral health and resiliency. An in vitro keratinocyte-UPM model was established to study effect of pollution and of H-EPS on keratinocyte mitochondrial metabolism. Experiments showed that pollution impairs
mitochondrial activity and therefore inhibits cell respiration, ATP production and increases ROS levels. H-EPS, on the other hand, boosts mitochondria metabolism and protects keratinocytes against UPM. H-EPS inhibits ROS production via at least partially activating NRF2. We then studied the effect of pollution in 3D skin models. Skin structure was completely disrupted
TABLE 4: TREATMENT ON HACATS WITH INCREASING AMOUNT OF S. EPIDERMIDIS. CERAMIDES WERE QUANTIFIED
Ceramide concentration (ng/mL/3.105 Control
S. epidermidis (bacteria/ cell ratio; 1:100)
S. epidermidis (bacteria/ cell ratio; 2:100)
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026 cell) 9.00 ± 0.9 16.0 ± 1.2 17.2 ± 1.3 +78% p<0,01 +91% p<0,01 % Change
by UPM. H-EPS increased barrier integrity by inducing ceramides and proteins involved in barrier function. We also showed that H-EPS may act via S. epidermidis, since it increases growth of the bacteria and expression of sphingomyelinase, an enzyme involved in ceramide production.
Conclusion Skin acts as a barrier between the body and the external environment. Permanent exposure to air pollution weakens its barrier function and disrupts the balance of respiratory and energy in skin cells, increasing oxidative damage and accelerating skin ageing. The consequence the ageing process is that skin loses its firmness and becomes drier and duller.
This research has established H-EPS as a
novel marine-derived active ingredient that can help reduce the harmful and ageing effects of pollution. H-EPS exerts its activity at the level of mitochondria to promote respiration and the production of ATP (cellular energy building block) while concomitantly reducing the production of harmful free radicals by activating cellular detoxification mechanisms. Furthermore, H-EPS promotes skin barrier
function by strengthening the epidermis directly and indirectly by promoting the growth of the key skin commensal bacterium S. epidermidis. H-EPS notably stimulates the neosynthesis of ceramides by Staphylococcus epidermidis. Clinical evaluations have shown that H-EPS
reduces skin fatigue, improves skin hydration and firmness, leading to softer and more radiant skin.
References 1. World Health Organization. Air pollution.
https://www.who.int/health-topics/air- pollution#tab=tab_1
2. Vierkötter A, Schikowski T, Ranft U et al. Airborne particle exposure and extrinsic skin
www.personalcaremagazine.com PCM 16 20 24 3% H-EPS ■ 2% H-EPS■ 1% H-EPS■ Control■ 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2
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