RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS 59


composed of microscopic oil droplets in an aqueous base (Figure 14). The visuals are clearly different – but beyond this another apparent difference is the resulting viscosity. The system formulated with this polymer has 22% higher viscosity. The formation of macroscopic beads rather than microscopic oil droplets means that the overall surface area of interfaces between oil and water phases is reduced, potentially reducing the required amount of emulsifier, surfactant and/or aqueous thickening agents.


Conclusion As the market for waterless products continues to grow, there is a steady shift from petroleum- based oils to esters and natural oils. This transition highlights the need for technologies compatible with these oils systems. Current technologies still fail to provide a broad range of attributes that are critical to support the current market demand, and although ingredient preferences are evolving, performance expectations are not. The Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)


Hydrogenated Poly (C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI/ Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer merges customer and market focus with performance. This polymer demonstrates multiple beneficial attributes such as compatibility with various oil systems, suspension, a wide range of viscosities across different use levels, UV filter and pigment compatibility, and superior clarity.


Figure 13: Aqueous micellar gel containing solid oil beads composed of Schercemol™ CO ester, AlgaPūr™ HSHO algae oil, and the oil-soluble polymer


Figure 14: (Left) Formula containing oil structured into solid beads using the polymer. (Right) Same formula without the polymer


References 1. Pandita R. Future Market Insights. Waterless cosmetic market outlook from 2025 to 2035. Future Market Insights [Internet]. April 2025. https://www.futuremarketinsights.com/reports/ waterless-cosmetic-market


PCM


2. Olioso B. Waterless cosmetics: a sustainable trend shaping the future of formulation. UL


Prospector [Internet]. October 2025. https:// www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/19951/ pcc-waterless-cosmetics-a-sustainable-trend- shaping-the-future-of-formulation/


3. Deckner G. Diverse technologies for polymeric oil thickeners. UL Prospector [Internet]. 2014. https:// www.ulprospector.com/knowledge/388/pcc- diverse-technologies-polymeric-oil-thickeners/


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May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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