ANTI-POLLUTION 81
Anti-pollution skin care benefits of marine extract
Alba Cico, Marie Berthy, Carole Le Bachelier, Camille Silou, Pauline Diaz, Martin Lanteigne, Cecile Jonchier, Bradley Haltli, Caroline Ringenbach, Philippe Mondon - Croda
ABSTRACT
According to WHO (World Health Organization) 99% of world population lives in areas where pollution has exceeded the established guideline limits.1 Skin is the major and first interface between
our body and the environment. It acts as a shield, but its resources are not unlimited. Studies have shown that high pollution levels have several negative consequences in skin, including increased production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), impaired cell respiration, barrier disruption and premature ageing.2-6 NRF2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related
factor 2) pathways serves as a cytoprotective and depolluting mechanism. When activated, this protein shuttles from the cytoplasm to the nuclei where it induces expression of enzymes (NQO1, HMOX etc) involved in ROS detoxification and therefore keeping oxidative equilibrium in mitochondria.7-9
NRF2-depollution capability is
regulated by ATP, the energy molecule produced in mitochondria.10,11 Skin barrier has both a physical and functional
role and is fundamental to protect and/ or at least minimize the negative effects of pollution on skin. It also helps maintain water, therefore fighting against dehydration.12,13 Skin barrier is established during the apical differentiation of keratinocytes that ends with the
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generation of a corneal layer in which corneocytes (anucleate protein-rich keratinocytes) serve as ‘bricks’ that are imbedded in lipids: sphingolipids (mainly ceramides), cholesterol and free fatty acids.12,13 Recent studies have shown that skin
microbiota are also involved in maintaining the skin barrier. Indeed, sphingomyelinase secreted by Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) has been shown to transform corneocyte-derived sphingomyelin in phosphocoline and ceramides.14 Because of the impact pollution has on
keratinocyte physiology we established an in vitro model to test the effect of UPM on skin cell and identify potential anti-pollution active ingredients. This research identified a novel oligosaccharide (H-EPS), obtained by fermentation of a Pseudoalteromonas strain isolated from a candelabra-type octocoral in The Bahamas, which exhibited potent pollution protection properties.
Materials and methods Mitochondrial membrane potential Immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were seeded in 96-well plates (Falcon) in DMEM medium (Gibco). Twenty-four hours later, cells were treated with H-EPS and/or UPM. To evaluate mitochondrial membrane
Pollution contributes to skin ageing and keratinocytes are the first skin cells to be in contact with air pollution. As a response, NRF2, a metabolic pathway known to be involved in ROS inhibition, is activated. As individuals age, this protective mechanism weakens leading to mitochondrial disruption, ROS increase and skin barrier disruption. We established in vitro conditions to study products reducing the impact of urban particle matter (UPM) on keratinocyte mitochondrial function. UPM disrupted mitochondrial activity in keratinocytes leading to a 72% inhibition of membrane potential, a 20% reduction in ATP production, and a 30% decline in oxygen consumption. Despite increase of NRF2 nuclear translocation, ROS levels rose by 27%. H-EPS reversed significantly all the above-mentioned effects on keratinocytes leading to a clear protection of cells. Topical application of UPM on equivalent skin completely disrupted skin barrier structure. H-EPS fully protected skin structure from UPM- induced damage, restoring skin thickness and organization. Indeed, H-EPS reinforced skin barrier by inducing corneodesmosin (+46%), involucrin (+42%) and ceramide production (+22%). H-EPS has also an effect on the microbiome. It increased S. epidermidis growth 15-fold and upregulated sphingomyelinase gene expression twofold. Increase of sphingomyelinase expression in S. epidermidis lead to ceramide production, parallel to canonical pathway, into skin
potential, keratinocytes were stained with JC10 (AAT Bioquest). Fluorescence was measured at 590 nm (polarized membrane) and 520 nm (depolarized membrane) and the 590-to-520 ratio was measured.
ATP production assay HaCaTs were seeded in 24-well plates (Falcon) in DMEM medium (Gibco). The next day, cells were incubated for several hours in a nutrient poor medium to limit ATP production. Cells were then treated with H-EPS and/ or UPM for 24 hours. ATP was extracted and quantified using a bioluminescence kit (Sigma) according to
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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