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demonstrated biological activity beyond passive humectancy. In human keratinocytes, treatment resulted in enhanced endogenous HA synthesis as well as upregulation of aquaporin-3, a key membrane channel involved in intracellular water and glycerol transport. This dual mechanism suggests that hydration
is supported not only through extracellular water binding but also through improved transcellular water movement. In contrast, exogenously applied high-molecular-weight HA primarily functions as a surface moisturizer with limited interaction with cellular hydration pathways. In addition to biological activity, the hydration
behaviour of high-molecular polysaccharides is strongly influenced by their physicochemical organization at the skin surface. Linear high- molecular-weight HA is known to form dense, cohesive films that effectively reduce water evaporation but may also restrict flexibility and dynamic water exchange. In contrast, branched polysaccharide systems such as mannose-rich glucuronoxylomannans are more likely to generate hydrated networks with spatial voids capable of retaining water while maintaining structural adaptability. This distinction may contribute to differences
in moisture film persistence, water diffusion, and sensory perception observed in practical formulation use. Although detailed rheological and sensorial evaluations were beyond the scope of this study, the observed hydration performance suggests that polymer architecture, rather than molecular weight alone, plays a critical role in defining the functional behaviour of high- molecular moisturizing agents. The in vivo hydration results further support this concept. Although the human study was conducted with a limited number of volunteers, consistent and statistically significant improvements in stratum corneum hydration were observed after one week of application compared with a placebo formulation. Importantly, no signs of skin irritation were reported, indicating good skin compatibility under the tested conditions. Additional cellular findings, including stimulation of procollagen type I synthesis and reduction of intracellular reactive oxygen species, suggest that sustained hydration provided by the polysaccharide network may be accompanied by supportive effects on skin structure and oxidative balance. While these benefits are secondary to the primary hydration function, they highlight the multifunctional potential of mannose-rich polysaccharide systems in cosmetic applications. Overall, the results indicate that Tremella
mycelial polysaccharides represent a high- molecular hydration biopolymer with a mechanism distinct from conventional HA, combining structural water retention with biologically relevant hydration pathways. Further studies, particularly larger-scale clinical evaluations and detailed rheological analyses, would be valuable to confirm and expand upon these findings.
Conclusion The Tremella fuciformis–derived mycelial polysaccharide evaluated in this study
www.personalcaremagazine.com A 120 100 88.18 80 58.66 * 98.67
80.38 *
76.9 *
40
0
H2O2 (300nM) Sample (%)
B
- -
+ -
+ 0.1% + 0.5% TFMPs (%) + 1% + 2%
Figure 6: Reduction of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS). Intracellular ROS levels were measured in human keratinocyte HaCaT cells exposed to H2
O2 following pretreatment with Tremella
mycelial polysaccharides. ROS generation was significantly reduced in a concentration-dependent manner, demonstrating cellular antioxidant activity. Values are expressed as mean ± SD (n = 3). *p < 0.05 vs control (A) Reduction of active oxygen production, (B) Intracellular ROS immunofluorescence
demonstrates that mannose-rich, branched polysaccharide systems can provide high- molecular hydration performance comparable to 1M Da HA while engaging additional biological hydration pathways, supporting its use as an alternative hydration biopolymer in cosmetic formulations.
physicochemical properties of polysaccharide (glucuronoxylo -mannan) from Fruit Bodies of Tremella fuciformis. Carbohydr Polym. 2020; 245
PCM
References 1. Xing H et al. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid-liposome delivery system for efficient transdermal treatment of acute and chronic skin photodamage. Acta Biomater. 2024; 182, 171-187
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3. Li S et al. Recent advances in polysaccharides from Tremella fuciformis: isolation, structures, bioactivities and application. Front Nutr. 2025; 12, 01-14
4. Xu X et al. Chain conformation and
5. Jo MH et al. Tremella fuciformis TFCUV5 Mycelial Culture-derived Exopolysaccharide Production and Its Anti-aging Effects on Skin Cells. BBE. 2021; 26, 738-748
6. Hsu MF, Chiang BH. Stimulating effects of Bacillus subtilis natto-fermented Radix astragali on hyaluronic acid production in human skin cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2009; 125, 474-481
7. Sohn SH, Lee SW, Shin YS, Kim HD, Yang SO, Kim SY, Kim YO. The Effect of Cosmetic on Anti- Wrinkle of Acer mono Sap. Korean J. Medicinal Crop Sci. 2013; 21(4), 262-267
8. Rastogi RP, Singh SP, Hader DP, Sinha RP. Detection of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by the oxidant-sensing probe 20,70-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate in the cyanobacterium Anabaena variabilis PCC 7937. Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications. 2010; 397, 603–607
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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