72 SCALP CARE
requiring a continuous supply of oxygen and nutrients. These requirements are supported by a dense microvascular network surrounding the follicle. Reduced microcirculation can impair nutrient delivery and limit follicular growth potential.
4. Structural weakening of hair fibres Hair shaft diameter contributes significantly to the visual perception of hair density. With age, reduced keratinocyte activity in the hair matrix can lead to thinner hair fibres, contributing to the appearance of reduced hair volume.
5. Deterioration of the scalp barrier environment The scalp provides the microenvironment necessary for healthy follicular activity. Changes in hydration, barrier integrity, and sebum balance can negatively influence follicle function. Maintaining an optimal scalp environment
is therefore essential for supporting healthy hair growth.
Biological mechanisms of FGF-2 in hair follicle physiology Fibroblast growth factor-2 is a multifunctional signalling protein involved in several biological processes relevant to hair follicle biology. FGF-2 interacts with fibroblast growth factor
receptors (FGFRs) located on dermal papilla cells and keratinocytes, activating intracellular signaling pathways including: ■ MAPK/ERK signaling ■ PI3K/AKT pathways These pathways regulate cellular proliferation, survival, and extracellular matrix production. Within the hair follicle environment, FGF-2 contributes to: ■ Stimulation of dermal papilla cell proliferation ■ Promotion of angiogenesis around follicles ■ Stimulation of keratinocyte proliferation in the hair matrix ■ Support of extracellular matrix remodeling Through these mechanisms, FGF-2 may
contribute to maintaining follicles in the active growth phase and enhancing hair fibre production.
Figure 1: FGF-2 supports anagen-phase signaling, improves hair density and shaft diameter and enhances dermal papilla and scalp microenvironment
Oleosome technology as a delivery system for biomimetic proteins One of the major challenges associated with incorporating growth factors into cosmetic formulations is maintaining protein stability while ensuring effective delivery to the skin. Proteins such as FGF-2 are highly sensitive to environmental conditions including temperature, oxidation, pH changes, and enzymatic degradation. When incorporated into conventional cosmetic emulsions, many proteins rapidly lose biological activity. To overcome these limitations, a delivery
approach based on plant-derived oleosomes was developed. Oleosomes are natural lipid storage structures found in plant seeds that function as energy reservoirs during germination. Structurally, they consist of a triglyceride core surrounded by a phospholipid monolayer embedded with structural proteins known as oleosins. This architecture provides several properties
that make oleosomes particularly attractive as cosmetic delivery systems. First, the phospholipid monolayer surrounding the triglyceride core provides inherent physical
stability. Unlike conventional lipid vesicles or liposomes, oleosomes are naturally designed by plants to withstand dehydration, temperature fluctuations, and mechanical stress during seed dormancy. Second, the lipid composition of oleosomes
closely resembles the lipid environment of the stratum corneum. This similarity may facilitate improved compatibility with the skin barrier and enhance the delivery of active compounds into the epidermis. Third, the presence of transmembrane proteins
allows functional biomimetic proteins like FGF-2 to be fused directly to the oleosome structure through biotechnology. In the case of biomimetic growth factors,
this approach allows the active protein to be presented in a stabilized configuration while maintaining biological activity. When applied topically, the oleosome particle
gradually collapses within the lipid environment of the skin, releasing the attached protein in close proximity to epidermal and dermal target cells. In stability studies comparing oleosome-fused
growth factors to conventional recombinant proteins, the oleosome-based system demonstrated significantly improved stability under accelerated storage conditions. This enhanced stability is particularly important
for cosmetic applications, where ingredients must remain active within complex formulations and across extended product shelf life.
Production of biomimetic growth factors using plant biofactories Another major limitation associated with growth factor ingredients is the complexity of traditional protein manufacturing systems. Many recombinant proteins used in
Figure 2: Oleosome-Growth Factors fusions from Camelina sativa seeds PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE May 2026
biotechnology are produced using microbial fermentation systems such as Escherichia coli or yeast. While these systems can manufacture protein at scale, they often require extensive purification steps and may involve the use of chemical reagents or solvents. Plant molecular farming has emerged as
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