SCALP CARE 71
Targeting the five biological causes of scalp ageing
Tony Abboud, Alexandre Reeber - Core Biogenesis ABSTRACT
Hair thinning is one of the most common cosmetic concerns affecting both men and women worldwide. While genetic factors contribute to hair loss conditions such as androgenetic alopecia, a significant portion of hair thinning observed in the general population is associated with environmental stress, hormonal fluctuations, inflammation, and ageing of the scalp microenvironment. Consumers often perceive hair density decline
as a direct reduction in hair quantity. However, hair thinning is typically the result of several biological processes affecting both the hair follicle and the surrounding scalp tissue. Historically, many cosmetic hair care products
have focused on improving the appearance of hair fibres through conditioning polymers or film-forming ingredients. While these approaches can temporarily enhance hair volume, they do not address the biological mechanisms responsible for progressive hair thinning. Advances in biotechnology have enabled the
development of biomimetic proteins capable of interacting with cellular signaling pathways involved in tissue repair and regeneration. Among these proteins, fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF-2) plays a particularly important role in hair follicle biology. A cosmetic active ingredient based on
biomimetic FGF-2 delivered through plant- derived oleosome microcarriers (Peaureva™) was
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therefore investigated for its potential to influence biological pathways associated with scalp ageing and hair thinning.
The five biological drivers of scalp ageing Hair thinning and reduced hair density are not caused by a single biological factor. Instead, scalp ageing results from a combination of physiological changes affecting follicular activity, hair fibre structure, and the surrounding scalp environment. Five biological mechanisms are particularly relevant to the progression of scalp ageing.
1. Hair cycle dysregulation Hair follicles undergo a continuous cycle consisting of three phases: ■ Anagen – active growth phase ■ Catagen – transitional phase ■ Telogen – resting phase In a healthy scalp, approximately 85–90% of
hair follicles remain in the anagen phase. Ageing, stress, hormonal changes, and inflammation can shift follicles toward the telogen phase, resulting in increased hair shedding and reduced hair density. The balance between anagen and telogen
follicles therefore represents an important indicator of follicular activity.
2. Decline in dermal papilla signalling Dermal papilla cells located at the base of the
Hair thinning and scalp ageing represent a growing cosmetic concern worldwide, with consumers increasingly seeking products capable of improving hair density, thickness, and overall scalp health. However, many topical hair care solutions lack robust clinical validation demonstrating measurable improvements in hair follicle biology. Recent advances in biotechnology have introduced biomimetic proteins capable of interacting with biological signalling pathways involved in tissue regeneration and cellular communication. Among these proteins, fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF-2) has been widely studied for its role in dermal papilla activity, angiogenesis, and extracellular matrix remodeling, all of which are critical processes in hair follicle physiology. This article presents the clinical evaluation of a cosmetic scalp treatment containing a biomimetic FGF-2 delivered using plant-derived oleosomes. The formulation was evaluated in a randomized, single-blind clinical study involving 40 volunteers over 84 days. Instrumental measurements demonstrated statistically significant improvements compared with placebo across multiple biological parameters associated with scalp ageing, including increases in the anagen/telogen ratio (+14.0% after 28 days), improved hair density (+33.6% after 28 days), increases in hair shaft thickness (+5.0% after 28 days), improved scalp hydration (+17.5% after 28 days), and reduced scalp sebum levels (-29.2% after 56 days). These results suggest that biomimetic growth factor technologies may represent a promising new approach to addressing multiple biological drivers of scalp ageing through topical cosmetic treatments
hair follicle function as a biological signaling hub controlling hair growth. These cells produce signaling molecules
that regulate follicular stem cells and hair matrix keratinocytes. With ageing, dermal papilla activity declines, resulting in shorter anagen phases and decreased follicular productivity.
3. Microvascular changes Hair follicles are metabolically active mini-organs
May 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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